Homes Gardening

2008-07-09T07:37:00.000-07:00

Clean the exterior of the greenhouse by washing the panes of glass with warm water and a sponge. Higher parts of the greenhouse can be reached by attaching a sponge to the end of a broom handle or a bamboo cane. Old plastic labels or a gentle jet wash attachment on the end of a hose are ideal for getting in under the window panel joints to remove the build-up of dirt underneath. Clean on a moderately windy day and let the breezes dry out the greenhouse as it's washed. Once the panes of glass are dry, insulate the greenhouse with bubblewrap to protect any plants you are overwintering, and to encourage the greenhouse to heat up more rapidly in the spring.
Check the panels for any broken or cracked glass. They should be replaced. If you are planning on doing the job yourself, then you should wear gloves and goggles. Wooden frames can be painted using a wood preservative, making sure that none of the solution touches the plants.

Growing bags

2008-04-18T12:59:00.000-07:00

Despite only measuring 35cm x 95cm (13in x 37in), growing bags have enough space for three vegetable plants that will provide you with enough food for several meals over the summer. Plant two to three plants in each bag during spring.
Bags were traditionally used under glass and were introduced as an alternative to planting directly into greenhouse soil. Not having permanent borders meant the space could be used more efficiently throughout the year and plants would not become infected by soil-borne diseases. Today, they are still ideal for growing plants in the greenhouse, but are also perfect in a sunny spot outdoors.
Growing bags are ideal for plants that don't have deep roots, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet peppers, chilli peppers, aubergines and courgettes. Plant two to three plants in each bag during spring. Alternatively, cut a long panel in the top of the bag and sow salads in rows. Endive, lettuce, basil and rocket can be sown from spring to late summer.
If growing salads, prepare the bag as before and cut out a long panel on top of the bag. Plant or sow in rows across the width of the bag.

Currants

2008-04-07T07:05:00.000-07:00

Bare rooted currant varieties are widely available for planting between October and March, while container grown currants can be planted all year round, as long as the soil is not frozen or waterlogged. If possible, buy a two year old plant – once planted it will remain productive for almost 20 years.
Grow currants in well drained soil, which has been enriched by adding plenty of well-rotted manure. Choose a slightly sheltered spot, and although plants prefer full sun, they will tolerate dappled shade.
Dig a hole that is wide enough for the roots to be spread out and deep enough, so the soil mark on the stem is level with the surface of the soil. Place the bush in the centre of the hole and gradually fill with soil, firming it as you fill. Water and finish by spreading a layer of well-rotted manure over the root area of each plant. If you are planting a number of red and white currant varieties, leave 1.5m between plants and 1.8m between rows.
Red and white currants should be trained as an open centred, goblet-shaped bush - this allows light and air to flow freely around the branches, and makes picking easier. After planting, pull off any suckers growing from beneath ground level and cut back to the stem, any branches less than 10cm above the soil – this will give the bush a short leg. Prune all other branches to a third of their original length, cutting to an outward facing bud. In subsequent years, allow branches to grow in the main framework until your bush fills its allotted space. Then, prune back the upright growing leading shoots to half their length, cutting to an upright bud. At the end of June, prune back side shoots to half their length and then to two or three buds in winter.

2008-03-16T05:57:00.001-07:00

Leeks prefer a sunny, sheltered site with well-drained soil. As they will sit in the soil for a long time, they are ideal crop for the allotment, although many have fantastic foliage that makes them an ideal vegetable to grow in flower borders or an ornamental potager.
If possible, prepare the soil for planting in the winter. Dig the site well, removing weeds and working in plenty of well-rotted manure to improve its ability to retain water. Leeks can be planted in heavy soil, but improve the drainage by mixing in some horticultural sand. This is a hungry crop – spread a general balanced fertiliser over the soil a week or so before sowing and rake in. A rate of 60g per square metre is ideal.
The easiest method is to sow seed directly into the soil between March and April. Alternatively, you could cheat and buy ready-grown seedlings, many nurseries offer a good range. By careful choice of varieties you could have an ample supply of leeks to harvest from mid-summer until the following spring.
On the allotment seeds are best sown in rows, 30cm apart. Mark a straight line and use the corner of a rake to make a shallow groove in the soil, about 1cm deep. Sow seed thinly along the trench, cover with soil, water and label. When seedlings have three leaves each, about four to five weeks later, thin to leave plants every 15cm – the seedlings you remove could be used to plug gaps elsewhere.

2008-03-11T07:17:00.000-07:00

Herbs
Spearmint, Mentha spicata; mint will thrive in most soils, to the extent that it can easily become a nuisance. To avoid this, try growing it in a container on the patio. Use the leaves to flavour new potatoes and peas.
Rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis; this pretty herb produces blue flowers and has highly-scented, needle-like leaves. Plant in a sunny, sheltered area of the garden.
Thyme, Thymus vulgaris; grow thyme in a well-drained, sunny area of your garden. The leaves of this evergreen herb can be picked throughout the year. Their distinctive taste goes well with a variety of dishes.
Chives, Allium schoenoprasum; grow in moist soil and full sun. For a regular supply of delicious leaves for your salads cut off the flowers before they open.
Lavender, Lavandula; a pretty herb that produces beautiful scented flowers during the summer months. Cut and dry some to make pot-pourri.
Sage, Salvia officinalis; this strong-flavoured herb has grey-green leaves and spikes of blue flowers. Grow in a sunny area of the garden.
Oregano, Origanum vulgarea; planted in a sunny area of the garden, marjoram will grow as vigorously as mint. Children may recognise its taste as it's often used in pizza and pasta.
Coriander, Coriandrum sativum; this popular herb, frequently used in Indian cookery and salads, favours a sunny, sheltered area of the garden. Both leaves and seeds can be used for flavouring.
Sweet bay, Laurus nobilis; this evergreen shrub or small tree likes a sheltered position in the garden. Its leaves are the key ingredient for bouquet garni and are great in stews.
Tarragon, Artemisia dracunculus; grown in a sheltered spot, tarragon can spread at the same rate as mint but is not totally hardy, so cover with straw as winter approaches.

2008-02-26T11:32:00.000-08:00

Chicory
There are three types of chicory: red chicory, which is sometimes known as raddichio and is often seen in mixed salad packs in supermarkets; sugarloaf varieties, which resemble lettuces and forcing chicory – this isn’t grown in the normal way. It is deprived of light, or forced, in winter to make edible white growths called chicons.
Chicory will thrive in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. It can be grown in short rows on the vegetable patch or allotment, and is also ideal for raised beds and large pots.
If you can, prepare soil for spring sowing by digging in the winter, adding plenty of well-rotted manure. Remove weeds, any very large stones and rake to leave a level finish. A week before sowing sprinkle a general purpose fertiliser (of approximately 30g per square metre) over the area and rake into the surface.
Sow seeds in July or August, for plants ready to be picked from October to December. To sow in rows, stretch a length of string between two canes to make a straight line and make a shallow trench, about 1cm deep, with a garden cane. Sow seeds thinly, then cover, water and label.
Alternatively, fill a large 45cm (18in) diameter pot with compost, level and tap to settle – aim to leave a 2cm (1in) gap between the surface of the compost and the rim of the pot. Sow seeds thinly across the surface and cover with a 1cm (0.5in) layer of vermiculite. Water and stand in a cold frame, or in a slightly shaded space in the garden.

2008-02-18T10:00:00.000-08:00

Plant sweetcorn in the spring and by late summer you’ll be picking lots of fresh cobs, which are far tastier and more succulent than any you can buy in the shop.
Sweetcorn is wind pollinated and best planted in large blocks, where the male flowers at the top of the plant have more opportunity to shed their pollen on the female tassels (where the cobs will form) below. Each plant will produce one or two cobs, so work
Sweetcorn likes free-draining, moisture retentive soil. If you can, prepare the bed the previous autumn before planting, adding plenty of well-rotted manure to the soil. Don’t worry if you never had time, beds can still be made in the spring. First remove weeds and dig over the site with a spade, removing any particularly large stones. Level roughly and then work over the area with a rake to leave a fine finish. out how many cobs you are likely to need (you can freeze them) and provide enough space to achieve this.
Ready-grown plants will establish quickly and provide cobs earlier than sowing seed directly into the soil. In April, fill a 7.5cm pot with compost, make a 2.5cm deep hole in the top with dibber (a pencil will do if you don’t have one) and drop two seeds in. Cover, water and put on a windowsill to germinate. When seedlings are about 2cm tall discard the weakest one and put plants in a shady place outdoors to toughen up before planting out.

2008-02-04T10:16:00.000-08:00

The garden in winter
Creating colour in the garden at this time of year has the reputation of being difficult and even pointless as many people argue they're not out in their gardens when it's wet and cold; but what about those beautiful days when the sun is low in the sky and catches the glorious red stems of a cornus?
A good evergreen foil should be the foundation of your garden all year round and it's particularly important through the winter months. It's likely to be the only permanent fixture and will give you a solid background to work with, setting off the rest of your planting scheme.
There are a number of evergreens to suit every garden. If it's a formal style you're after, crisp, clipped yew, box and bay are the right choice. It doesn't have to be wall-to-wall green, deciduous shrubs add value and a mixed border will give a more relaxed feel with dark, bare stems.
Taxus baccata yew
Laurus nobilis sweet bay
Buxus sempervirens box
Camellia japonica camellia

Berries add a burst of colour to the garden as well as providing food for wildlife. These valuable winter jewels come in a surprising range of colours, red being the most obvious but shades of orange, yellow, pink, white and even vibrant purple can be just as spectacular and a talking point.

2008-01-29T11:26:00.000-08:00

The ever-increasing number of tender plants on offer may not withstand sustained cold without some form of protection. How you protect your plants from the effects of cold depends on the type of plants and the situation they are growing in.
Plants that are trained against walls or tender plants growing in the open ground can be protected with simple, fleece-covered frames. Alternatively, sandwich a layer of bracken leaves or straw between two large sections of chicken wire and use this to cover plants during frosty evenings. Tender bulbs, corms and tender, herbaceous plants (that die back) should be covered with a thick mulch of manure, straw or old leaves to prevent the soil from freezing. In the spring, new shoots can be protected with a loose layer of straw or a bell-cloche.
Evergreen plants will benefit from a thick layer of mulch around their bases to keep the soil frost-free. This will allow them to take up moisture during periods of cold weather and stop them from becoming dehydrated.
Tender plants should be grown in pots so that they can be moved inside during bad weather. Take cuttings of those that cannot be grown in pots and overwinter these in a warm greenhouse, ready for planting in spring.
Protect the crowns of tree ferns and insulate their trunks by wrapping them in layers of fleece or hessian stuffed with straw. Cordylines and palms should be treated similarly, by tying their leaves into bunches, to protect their crowns.

2008-01-28T09:48:00.000-08:00

The effects of cold
Cold weather and particularly frost, causes the water in plant cells to freeze, damaging the cell wall. Frost-damaged plants are easy to spot, their growth becomes limp, blackened and distorted. Evergreen plants often turn brown and the leaves of tender plants take on a translucent appearance. Frost problems are often made worse where plants face the morning sun, as this causes them to defrost quickly, rupturing their cell walls.

Minimising damage
Prevention is far better than cure, so try to minimise the damaging effects of cold on your plants:
Avoid golden or variegated plant varieties that are often more tender.
Choose plants that are reliably hardy in the area where you live.
Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers as they encourage plants to make lots of sappy leafy growth that is particularly susceptible to damage, especially early and late in the year.
Make sure tender specimens are planted in a sheltered spot, under large trees and shrubs or against walls, give them some heat and protection during the winter.
Ensure that plants with tender flower buds or shoots are not planted in east-facing sites.
Leave the old growth of tender plants unpruned over the winter months. This will help to protect the central crown of the plant and take the brunt of any frost damage. If plants are cut back hard in autumn new growth could be damaged by frost.
Cold air and frost always descend to the lowest point in a garden so avoid planting tender plants in obvious frost pockets.

2008-01-09T11:22:00.000-08:00

Wood is potentially one of the most environmentally friendly materials we can use in the garden: it’s a natural material that can be sustainably grown, it takes less energy than other hard materials to turn into products such as planks, panels and furniture, and it absorbs harmful carbon dioxide as it grows. But there’s a huge demand for it.
The shortage of fence panels earlier this year, when many householders needed to replace ones felled by the storms, was put down to European producers exporting more to China and Dubai - and in parts of the world trees are being felled in a way that damages the forests, the people who live in them, and the wider environment.

The growing, harvesting and processing of new timber uses energy and water. Where possible, use recycled or reclaimed wood. Re-use the wood you already have, or offer it to a local re-use project.
Buy locally produced wood products that are FSC certified, which will mean less transportation costs.
If the wood you want comes from abroad, make sure that it's FSC certified, with a chain of custody number.
With any wood that doesn't carry the FSC logo, find out what kind it is and check to see if it's from an endangered species (see good wood guides). If it is, try to find an alternative.
Support the work of conservation groups such as WWF, Greenpeace, Friends of the Earth and The Woodland Trust to implement responsible forest management in the logging industry worldwide.

2008-01-07T06:54:00.000-08:00

Many pests and diseases can be minimised by good gardening practices such as careful feeding and watering, crop rotation, and choosing plants that suit the conditions.
Use barriers such as mesh against flying creatures and products such as copper tape, rings, grit or mats against slugs and snails.
Try biological controls such as nematodes which use one living organism to control the pest without harming humans, pets and other beneficial creatures. These work very effectively but require a minimum temperature to work, and are expensive for using on large areas.
Encourage natural predators, such as ladybirds and lacewings, by creating wildlife habitats and hiding places in your garden.
Try companion planting to deter pests.
Choose plant varieties that show resistance to pests and diseases.
Avoid overfeeding young plants – lots of lush growth will attract slugs and snails.
Use chemicals as a last resort, making sure you use the right product for the pest, disease or weed. Don’t buy more than you need, and dilute exactly as directed on the label. Apply it at the right stage of a pest’s lifecycle. Spray in early morning or late evening, when beneficial insects are not foraging. Do not spray if it is windy or about to rain.
Store chemicals in their original containers in a cool dark place, out of reach of children and pets. Spray surplus diluted product on level, bare soil or over an uncultivated area such as gravel or a driveway, away from drains, ponds or watercourses.

2007-12-17T10:52:00.000-08:00

A worm is a long, creeping animal, with a soft, often segmented body. They don't have legs but instead are covered in hairs or bristles that help them to move. They breathe through their skin, which must remain moist to absorb oxygen from the air.
They've existed for about 600 million years. There are about 34,000 different types of worm; many are so small you wouldn't be able to see them without a microscope!
Worms are hermaphrodite, which means they don't need another worm to reproduce. They lay their eggs, which hatch as little worms. Worms can live for up to 10 years.
Worms eat their own weight in organic waste, soil and minerals and excrete their own weight in castings daily, which makes compost and enriches the soil. One acre of worms can break up about 50 tonnes of soil. They don't eat living plant tissue, and so don't hurt plants either. They truly are a gardener's best friend! Some people even keep them as pets, feeding them on kitchen scraps just so the worms can make them lots of lovely compost for their gardens.

2007-12-10T07:55:00.000-08:00

What is pollination?
Pollination takes place when pollen lands on the stigma of a plant. It then travels down to the ovary and it's here that the ovules are fertilised. Most plants have flowers with the male and female parts present in each flower. Mostly, plants rely on insects, such as bees, to take the pollen from the anthers to the stigma.

Pollination by insects
An insect can pollinate flowers accidentally when the pollen is rubbed off the body of the insect. Plants can produce nectar within flowers, a sugary liquid, which many insects feed on. Pollen is a useful source of protein for some insects, such as bees. Insects are attracted to the flower by scent, colours and nectar. They carry pollen from flower to flower, while collecting nectar and pollen for themselves. After pollination, the plant produces a seed, which mostly grows protected inside the plants' ovaries.
It's not always insects that pollinate the flowers; plants may use the wind, birds or even bats as pollinators! With wind-pollinated plants - such as grasses, cereals and some trees - the flowers are very simple, with no bright colours or nice smells as they don't need to attract the insects. These plants have both male and female reproductive parts and they make a lot of pollen. This is why a pollen allergy is called 'hay fever'.

2007-12-04T08:12:00.001-08:00

Photosynthesis
Most plants are really lucky - they don't have to go out shopping for their food or spend time cooking it. They just sit around in our gardens waiting for sunshine and then they make their food themselves.

Plants
They use the sunlight and the green in their leaves to make sugars from carbon dioxide (which they breathe in through their leaves during the day) and water. This sugar is then used to give the plant energy so that it can grow. This process is called photosynthesis and is the most important process on the planet, as many other plants and animals depend on plants to survive. Most of the energy is used to make new plant material, although some of it is stored by the plant for use during the months when there is less sunlight.

During the night, plants breathe in oxygen. This is called respiration. The plant also needs minerals to grow, which the plant takes from the soil where they are dissolved in water. The plant releases any water that it doesn't need into the air through its leaves. This is called transpiration.
Plants are the only living organisms that can make their own food. This is one of the main ways of deciding if something is a plant.

2007-11-29T10:44:00.000-08:00

A weed is simply a plant that is growing where it is not wanted. But why are they considered such pests? Here are some things you didn't know about weeds.

Wily weeds
There are many ways in which they succeed in popping up in the most inconvenient of places:
by growing very fast, often smothering other plants to get the most light, minerals and water
by producing lots of seeds and having lots of different ways of spreading them around
by germinating their seeds quickly
by producing seeds that survive over several years
by having effective defence systems that protect them from being eaten by animals or picked by people, for example, stinging nettles
by multiplying in more ways than one, usually making new plants along their stems

Interesting facts
Stinging nettles are often used in herbal medicine for cleaning the body and making the heart work better. Nettles are packed full of vitamin C and new shoots are often used to make tea.
There are many superstitions linked to weeds. For example, if you hold a buttercup under your chin and a yellow shadow appears, it means you like butter. Or, finding a four-leaf clover brings good luck. And if you touch a dandelion you will wet the bed! The French word for dandelion is Pissenlit, which directly translated means 'wee in bed'. Weeds such as wild carrot, cow parsley and celery grow at least 350 seeds on a single flower-head. Wild clematis grows climbing, sprawling stems up to 30m long (100ft) - that's about 20 people from top to toe!

2007-11-08T12:16:00.000-08:00

Step-by-step guide
1 First your children should place some crocks at the base of their plant pot.
2 Then they need to half-fill the pot with soil or compost.
3 Help them to dig up a dandelion. They must get most of the long taproot up with it, without which it will quickly die. (The taproot is the straight, tapering root growing vertically downwards and forming the centre from which subsidiary rootlets emerge.)
4 Help your children to plant it in the pot, and firm it in with more soil or compost.
5 Let them water it well, then put it on a windowsill.
6 Look at it regularly. They should see it grow buds, then the flowers will open, then they'll die, and finally the seed clocks will form.
7 Their dandelion should grow quite a few flowers. They can count how many it grows, then see if they can guess how many seeds it has produced - hundreds!

Useful information
Many plants are known as weeds because they are successful at growing where more delicate species would die. Dandelions are strong plants. In fact, the trauma of being dug up will actually stress the plant and cause it to produce more flowers, rather than killing it. Eventually it's likely to die in the pot.

2007-11-05T06:31:00.000-08:00

The function of all flowering plants is to produce seeds. Once the seeds have grown and ripened, the plant has to get them to somewhere that they will be happy growing.

Plants have many ways of spreading or dispersing their seeds.
gravity - heavy seeds will just fall off the plant.
wind - very fine seeds will blow away on the wind. Some seeds have special parachutes or wings to help them fly, for example, dandelions.
hooks - the seeds are covered with hooks which catch on to a passing animals' fur; they then catch a free ride to another place where they are rubbed off later.
animals - the seeds look like tasty treats for the animals to eat, but they pass undigested through the animal. Animals, including birds and insects, sometimes bury the seeds.
pepperpot - the seed-pod is like a little pepperpot and sprinkles the seeds over quite a wide area.
exploding - the seed-pod bursts suddenly, throwing all the seeds out over a large area.
floating - some seeds grow with air trapped in them, so they can float away from the parent plant.

2007-11-01T11:50:00.000-07:00

Your children might know what is inside an apple or an orange - but what about some of those exotic fruits at the shops? This exercise will reinforce the fact that a fruit is a plant's way of dispersing its seed. And it should stimulate their imagination.

What you will need
some exotic fruit from the market or supermarket. Look for ones they have never seen before.
an adult
a sharp knife
a pencil and felt pens
paper folded into four quarters
Step-by-step guide
1 Ask children to choose one of the fruits and write its name down in the first box on the paper if they know it.
2 Next they should draw a picture of it in the second box. Tell them to look carefully at it. Has it got a pattern? Does it have hairs or prickles? What colour is it?
3 In the third box, they can draw what they think it looks like inside. What colour is the flesh? What about the seeds - are there lots, or is there just one pip or a big, hard stone?
4 Cut it carefully in half for your children. Did their drawing look similar to the inside of the fruit?
5 Ask them to draw it in the fourth box. Again, they need to look carefully, so that their picture shows what is really there.
6 Try it again with different fruits.

2007-10-30T11:56:00.000-07:00

Create a record of your garden to help children appreciate the changing seasons and see the value of simple and regular observation. Recording things provides memories for the future
What you will need
a scrapbook
sticky-backed plastic
old seed catalogues
a camera
scissors
glue
paper
felt pens and crayons

1 Ask your children to draw a picture of themselves in the garden, write the date and their address underneath it and stick it on the first page of their scrapbook.
2 They can collect leaves and plants from the garden and put them in their scrapbook. Help them to put sticky-backed plastic over them, and to write their names by them.
3 They can draw pictures of different parts of the garden.
4 Or they can take photographs of the garden. Maybe they could choose one part, and take a picture of it on the first day of each month for a year. Then they can see how much everything changes.
5 Encourage them to keep their scrapbook near a window and draw or write the names of the birds they see coming into the garden over the different seasons.
6 Stick in the seed packets of any seeds they grow. Give them old seed catalogues to cut out pictures of plants they want to grow - or they may like to design their dream flowerbed!
7 They can draw, cut out and label any wildlife they find. They might see frogs, butterflies, hedgehogs, ladybirds, beetles, ants, bees, caterpillars, foxes - the list is endless.
8 Why don't you get them to ask other people in your family, or visitors, to add something to their book?

2007-10-25T08:12:00.000-07:00

What you will need
new terracotta plant pot of any size
emulsion paint in a range of colours - at least two
wide and thin paint brushes

Cover your work surface with old newspaper, and ensure your children are wearing old clothes or a painting apron. Now they're ready to paint their pot with a base coat of emulsion. They don't need to paint the base, and only need to paint inside down to the bottom of the rim. Then they can stand it on an old coffee jar lid to dry. Wash their brush and let this dry too. When they've decided how they are going to decorate the pot, they can paint it on with the thin brush. They can paint spots or stripes, flowers, a face, or even some ladybirds! Tell them to let their imagination go wild or try some of our design suggestions below. If they are using more than one colour for their decoration, they need to let the paint dry between each colour.

Tips and advice
Always try to use water-based emulsion paint for this project, as it's very easy to clear up, and it dries quickly.
Your children will probably be tempted to paint everything at once. Avoid this. Wet paints will run together and make a mess!
Talk about the design with your children before they start, then let them get on with it. Just ensure they have the right amount of paint on their brush - neither too much nor too little

2007-10-17T07:00:00.000-07:00

Let your children go conkers! By collecting tree seeds and planting them, they will learn how to plant while reinforcing their understanding of the link between seeds and plants.

What you will need
a plant pot
crocks
soil and compost
some tree seeds - conkers from a horse chestnut tree, acorns from an oak tree, and helicopters from a sycamore tree are all good ones to look for

Take your children for a walk in the park or in the countryside to collect some seeds. Conkers are always a good seed for planting. Check their seeds do not have any holes in them - if they have, it means insect larvae will be inside eating! Place some crocks at the base of a pot, then nearly fill it with soil, mixed with some compost. Ask your children to plant their seed about 2cm deep, then cover it up with soil and compost, watering it well. They can put their pot in a shady place in the garden for the winter. Ensure the children check it from time to time to see if the soil is too dry - but they shouldn't overwater it! Explain to your child that they will need to wait until spring to see if their seed has sprouted. They can grow their tree in a pot as long as they keep repotting it into a bigger pot whenever it gets too cramped.

2007-10-06T05:49:00.000-07:00

Wrongly accused
An insect is a small creature with three body parts (head, thorax and abdomen) and three pairs of legs. Many have wings. Most of them undergo complete changes of shape during their lifecycles.
Several 'creepy-crawlies' common in the garden are wrongly known as insects: centipedes, millipedes, woodlice, spiders, scorpions, harvestmen, ticks and mites are all from the family Arthropoda. All insects are arthropods, but not all arthropods are insects.
Interesting facts
All wasps die in winter, except the queen.
Only bumblebees and honeybees live together in colonies. Most species of bees live on their own, some in holes in the ground.
Grasshoppers sing by rubbing their hind legs against their front wings; crickets sing by rubbing their front wings together.
Some plants eat insects! They do this by catching them and dissolving their bodies, then they absorb the juice. This gives them nitrogen, which normal plants get from the soil - but these plants live in places where there isn't any.
The larva of the rare Death's Head Hawkmoth squeaks if it is touched.
Most beetles can fly, but the ground beetles you may find in your soil have lost the ability to fly - they scuttle everywhere very fast instead.
The Chilean red-leg spider can eat mice and birds. The funnel-web spider has fangs, which can pierce bone, and its bite can kill a person in two hours.

2007-10-01T06:53:00.000-07:00

How do they survive?
Cacti and succulents have adapted to grow where there is not much fresh water, in places like deserts. Deserts get very little rain, are very hot during the daytime and often frosty at night. A prickly cactus stops birds and animals trying to eat them for their water!
About cacti
Most plants get rid of litres of water every day, by a process called transpiration, giving out water through their leaves (a bit like when we sweat!). Cactus leaves have become a lot smaller so they don't lose so much water; most have shrunk to spines or hairs but some have disappeared altogether!
The stems are green to make food for the plant, because the leaves can't do it any more - they are too small.
Cacti stems and ridges expand to store lots of water when it rains. Think of a camel that stores food in his hump! This guides as much rain as possible to the roots.

2007-09-30T10:03:00.000-07:00

Introduce your children to the metamorphic lifecycle of moths and butterflies. Collecting and observing caterpillars will foster their interest in the natural world and increase their awareness of the local environment.
How long will it take?
Approximately 20 to 30 minutes to set up.
What you will need
glass jar
some caterpillars
plant for food
magnifying glass
Step-by-step guide
1 Help your children to look carefully around your garden, in the park or countryside near you for some caterpillars. Damaged leaves provide clues to where they might be.
When they find some, they need to put them in a glass jar. It is very important that they put some of the plant where they found the caterpillars into the jar as well. Most caterpillars only like one sort of food - they are very fussy!
3 Your children need to keep checking each day that the caterpillars have enough food and that it is nice and fresh.
4 They will not need to put any air holes in the lid of the jar, especially if they take the lid off once a day.
5 Now they just need to watch and wait . . . and wait . . . and wait!
6 Their caterpillars should get bigger, and might even shed their skin.
7 After a while, they will turn into a chrysalis. They will look as if they are dead, but wait patiently.
8 One day each chrysalis will hatch into a butterfly or a moth. Now your children can let them out into the garden.

2007-09-17T08:52:00.000-07:00

Help your children to prepare boxes for the insects by putting some damp soil or compost in the bottom and adding a stone or two.
Go into your garden and help your children find some insects. They like to hide in cool, damp places. Let the children move stones, look in the compost bin and examine flowers, leaves and the soil. Your children can collect them carefully by using a piece of card to pick them up.
They need to put them in the plastic boxes, but should try not to mix the different sorts, just in case they eat each other! Give your children a magnifying glass to watch what the bugs do. They can put them on a clean piece of paper if they want to look more closely at them. How many legs do they have? What colours are they? Do they have any patterns on them? What do their faces look like? How do they defend themselves?
Now they can either put the bugs back in the garden, or draw one or more of the insects on the paper. Tell them to make their picture nice and big, putting their name and the date on the bottom of it.

2007-09-15T14:18:00.000-07:00

Now for the prickly ones! The children need to pick them up by wrapping a folded sheet of newspaper around each one, so that they do not get the prickles in their fingers. Ask them to plant them in their pot and carefully firm them in.
When they are all planted, the children should place pebbles in the spaces between the plants, then use the sand and shingle to cover any soil they can still see.
They can water the pot gently using a watering can with a sprinkler end on it.
They should place their new garden on a windowsill and wait for it to start growing!
The garden will only need to be watered when the soil is dry. These plants come from places where water is extremely rare!
Drainage is all-important for these plants. Mix up two parts of compost with one part coarse sand or grit.

Tips and advice
Choose plants with your children from the 'cactus' section at your local garden centre. Take care with the thorns and prickles; some are extremely sharp! Others are dangerous because they enter the skin like a splinter, but cannot be seen, which makes removal difficult.
Although these plants are generally grown for their beautiful foliage, some will flower.

2007-09-09T03:41:00.000-07:00

with childern

This exercise will give you the opportunity to talk about how cacti have adapted to the hot, dry environment of the deserts where they come from. You can also discuss the variety of different types that exist.
How long will it take?
An hour to plant up, plus a nice trip to the garden centre.

What you will need
plastic washing-up bowl or large plant pot, not too deep
crocks (broken plant pot)
shingle and coarse sand or grit
compost
cacti and succulents
a few pebbles from a beach trip or a walk

Ask your children to place some crocks in the base of the pot or bowl. They need to cover them with a layer of shingle or coarse sand. This is to give the plants the good drainage that they need.
Next they should mix some coarse sand into their compost, then nearly fill the pot with it.
Tell them to sort the plants into those with prickles and thorns, and those without. They should carefully take the non-prickly plants out of their pots and plant them into their bowl. They need to ensure there is enough soil around the roots - plants like to feel safe and well firmed into their new home, not loose and floppy!

2007-09-08T12:20:00.000-07:00

Plan for spring
Plant up patio pots or borders with erysimum, more commonly known as wallflowers, for a cheery spring show. Although they can be grown on their own, try planting tall-growing tulip bulbs in a contrasting colour first and planting the wallflowers over the top. The tulips will then grow up through them to provide an extra layer of height and colour.
Deadheading
Deadhead roses as the blooms fade, cutting off the flowers just above the uppermost leaf on the stem. Trim back lavender bushes after flowering to remove the old blooms and shoot tips, taking care not to cut back too heavily into any old wood. Removing faded flowers from perennials and annual plants will also ensure a continued display of blooms.
Look out for greenfly on winter-flowering pansies and other plants. Treat with a suitable insecticide.
Give roses a final deadheading when the blooms have faded and shorten tall stems slightly to reduce wind rock. However, leave those that have developed hips for some extra autumn colour.

2007-08-27T07:52:00.000-07:00

Shading
Make sure your plants are well shaded on hot days to prevent scorch. The easiest way to do this is to apply netting or shade paint to the outside of the glass. Scorch is exacerbated if leaves are wet, so take care to water plants carefully.
Damping down
Damp down the greenhouse floor every morning on hot days to increase humidity. The plants will love this and it also helps to discourage red spider mite.
Tomatoes
Regularly pinch out any tomato sideshoots and tie the leading shoot to its support. Feed plants weekly with a high-potash tomato fertiliser, never letting them go short of water.
Cucumbers
Pinch out the tips of sideshoots to a couple of leaves beyond any developing fruits. Remember to pick any cucumbers regularly, as leaving old fruit on plants delays further flowering.

2007-08-24T13:30:00.001-07:00

Supporting plants
Support the stems of tall perennials and lilies with bamboo canes and watch out for lily beetles and their larvae. Pick any off and destroy them immediately.
Deadheading
Deadhead roses as the blooms fade, cutting off the flowers just above the uppermost leaf on the stem. Trim back lavender bushes after flowering to remove the old blooms and shoot tips. Take care not to cut back too heavily into any old wood. Removing faded flowers from perennials and annual plants will also ensure a continued display of blooms.
Dried flowers
Cut everlasting flowers, such as helichrysum and achillea, and grasses, such as pennisetum, when they are at their peak. Hang them upside down in a warm, airy position to dry naturally, ready for decorative arrangements.
Prune wisteria
Summer prune wisteria this month, shortening their long wispy sideshoots back to about five or six leaves from the main framework. If the plant's flowering performance was poor last spring, drench the soil with a high-potash fertiliser for an improvement

2007-08-22T03:12:00.000-07:00

Camellia
As long as they are planted in acid soil, camellias are not difficult to grow, and will even thrive in tricky semi-shaded areas, needing only minimal care once established. Most grow into large shrubs or small trees, but are extremely versatile and can be used as wall shrubs, hedges or superb container specimens.
For centuries, camellias have been popular in Japan and China, as can be seen on many of their works of art. Gardeners in Britain first grew these new plants in the early 18th century and by 1850, the camellia had become a prized ornamental shrub. Victorians loved the formality of the blooms and the elegant nature of the evergreen foliage. But, after the Victorian era, interest in camellias waned. Only in the 1950s did they become fashionable again, helped by the introduction of new varieties and species.
Camellia. japonica is the most popular garden species of camellia with the greatest number of varieties.

2007-08-06T07:36:00.000-07:00

If I had to choose herbs 'must haves' to put in a window box on the sunny side of the house I would include chives, oregano, lemon thyme and a creeping rosemary to drape over the edge. However, on the shady side of the house I would have a salad herb window box which would include wild rocket, chervil, French parsley and red mustard.
When growing herbs in containers, I have two important tips. The first is to use a soil-based compost, either organic compost. This is because there are very few herbs that grow in peat, and a soil-based compost retains moisture which is a must to stop containers drying out. I also advise watering in the morning rather than the evening because this gives the plants a chance if the temperatures are hot during the day, especially for containers grown in full sun. The second tip is to feed container plants weekly from March until September. This keeps the plants healthy, helps them produce leaves, especially on cut and come again salads. I use a seaweed-based feed, however you can use any proprietary feeds that boost leaf production.

2007-07-16T10:21:00.000-07:00

Strawberries can be grown in a wide range of soils, from light sand to heavy clay. However, waterlogging will cause the fruits to become diseased and the plant to rot. The ideal soil is well-drained and rich in humus. They prefer to be planted in full sun, out of the wind.
Strawberry plants can be planted outdoors from late June until September. If planted later, the flowers should be removed in the first year so the energy is used to develop a healthy plant in year two.
Prepare the soil prior to planting by digging over the soil, removing any perennial weeds by hand and adding manure to the ground. Place the strawberry plants every 35cm (13 in) within the row, with the rows being 75cm (30 in) apart, and plant with the crown at soil level. Water in well. To prevent slugs, put down pellets or place grit or broken egg shells under each plant.
Strawberry plants can produce fruit for five or six years. However, after the first two years the yields will be reduced dramatically and a build-up of pests and diseases can occur. Strawberry beds are usually kept for two or three years before they're cleared and planted on new ground.

2007-07-10T09:19:00.000-07:00

Mulching plants
Beds and borders can quickly dry out or be taken over by weeds, so use a layer of mulch across the soil surface to prevent this. Many different materials can be used to cover the soil’s surface, including bark chippings, leaf mould, well-rotted farmyard manure or crushed shells.
Mulching has many benefits. It can help to provide nutrients to plants, locks in moisture, forms a barrier against weeds and can help to insulate the roots of vulnerable plants from winter cold. It can also be used for decorating the tops of pots. In the autumn, spread a ring of mulch around newly planted trees, shrubs or herbaceous perennials.
The best time to mulch entire beds or borders is in late-winter or early spring. This will trap in moisture from wet weather and ensure beds don’t dry out quickly in the heat of summer.
Before mulching make sure the site is clear of weeds and the soil is moist. Water if necessary as it’s difficult to wet dry soil through a layer of mulch. Fill up a wheelbarrow with your chosen mulch and spread a 5cm (2in) layer around plants or across the soil with a spade, leaving a little gap around the stems of plants. Rake to a level finish.

2007-07-09T09:53:00.000-07:00

When digging, many gardeners prefer to simply lift a spade of soil, invert it and drop it back in its original position. This is known as simple digging and is suitable for cleaning the soil surface of any debris and non-persistent weeds. This method is often the best option for working with irregularly-shaped beds or around existing plants.
If you suffer from a bad back you may prefer this method over other digging techniques. It is useful for vegetable plots which need organic matter added. Your soil does need to be weed-free and level so this will involve some clearance work. Then, in late autumn, spread manure or compost over the surface of the bed and worms will do the work of incorporating it by taking it down into the soil. Further mulch can be applied during the growing season. Repeating this process annually will keep your soil fertile.

2007-07-02T08:15:00.000-07:00

Safety
When painting, or using any material that generates toxic fumes or dust, keep the room well ventilated. Never smoke while painting or standing close to a freshly painted area.
Always use the correct tools for the job. It is worth investing in high quality equipment as this will be safer and will probably do the job quicker.
Store tools in a safe place, out of the way of children and pets. Keep them in a box or a rack.
When using knives, always cut away from you. Use a baton as a guide and run a sharp knife along the edge of it. Always store knives securely.
When fixing or checking electrical appliances or connections, always switch off the power and remove the fuse or circuit breaker (MCB). If you're fixing an electrical appliance, switch off the appliance at the socket and pull out the plug. Wear rubber-soled shoes when working on electrics.
Always keep a chemical fire extinguisher in the house. Never use water to put out a fire in an electrical appliance. Gas and electrical work is best left to a registered professional.

2007-06-25T12:25:00.000-07:00

Achilleas are cheery border, wildflower and rock garden plants with flattened heads in a range of bright colours from white to lemon, pink and red. Recommended varieties
New colourful varieties keep coming on the market. Easily grown, they look after themselves and give a failsafe show.
Achilleas are usually deciduous perennials best suited to cottage rather than formal gardens.

Growing tips
Site and soil preferences
Provide good sun and light, sandy soils. They almost invariably die over winter if there is any clay in the ground.
Deadheading
Achilleas flower from June to July, and sporadically in August and September if the plants are deadheaded.
Cutting back and dividing
Some varieties stand a better chance of surviving if they are cut back hard after flowering. Divide and rejuvinate the older plants in autumn or spring, although these new plants usually have inferior flowers to their parents.

2007-06-12T09:43:00.000-07:00

Deciding what to grow is one of the best things about vegetable growing, but it's important to choose carefully and not get too carried away. Choose vegetables you really like, and look out for interesting varieties that you can harvest progressively. This will ensure that you have a ready supply of delicious vegetables throughout the growing season.
Once you've made your selection, divide up your plot into four beds. Grow vegetables in four separate beds, grouped according to our guide. The reason for this 'grouping' is that you should not a grow the same vegetable in the same place year after year. Continuous cropping of the same plant can exhaust the soil of nutrients and pests and diseases can build up.
The answer to this potential problem is consistent plot rotation: in your second year of vegetable growing, your vegetables will 'move up' one bed. Your group two vegetables will be planted where the group one vegetables previously were, group three moves to the group two bed and so on. This allows the soil to recover, and the rotation can even be beneficial to future vegetables: for example, the nitrogen that peas and beans naturally deposit in the soil is perfect for encouraging growth in cauliflowers and cabbages.

2007-06-07T07:46:00.000-07:00

Buy ready grown plants of sweet pepper, chilli pepper, cherry tomato and aubergine, strawberries and herbs or try cut salad mixes grown from seed.
Mix a handful of water-retaining crystals into your compost and fill your pot to the top. Gently tap to settle the compost and firm down with your fingertips. Leave a 2cm (1in) gap between the compost and the top of the pot for watering.
Scoop out compost in the centre to leave a hole slightly bigger than the rootball of your plant.
Gently remove plant from pot and place in hole. Replace compost around the plant and firm, making sure the surface of the plant is level with the top of the compost.
If growing from seed, check the instructions on the packet. Either raise in small pots before planting into larger ones or scatter across the surface of the compost and water in.
For larger fruit bushes such as blueberries, figs, peaches and apricots, select a larger pot and make sure you check the compost requirements on the plant label.

2007-05-28T10:24:00.001-07:00

Most houseplants will thrive in a draught-free, well-lit spot, out of direct sunlight.
Wait until compost has almost dried out before watering. Apply from the top of plants and allow excess liquid to drain away.
When in flower, feed plants weekly with a liquid fertiliser high in potash.
Spray ferns and bromeliads with water daily.
Keep plants looking good by deadheading flowers and cutting off damaged, dying or yellowing leaves.
Plants will grow better with clean leaves. Remove dust with damp cotton wool.
If growth is pale and spindly, put plants in a lighter spot.
Control pests, such as mealy bug, woolly aphid and scale insects by rubbing off with damp cotton wool. Cut off growth damaged by red spider mite and deter them by regularly misting plants with water to raise humidity.

2007-05-21T06:49:00.000-07:00

Plants don't come cheap and it pays do some homework before you go shopping. You'll save money by making sure you get the best plants that are right for your garden.
Have a clear idea of what you want to buy or you'll end up spending more than you originally intended.
Research what will do well in your garden - buy the right plant for the right place and it will thrive.
Don't buy on impulse unless you have a space for it.
Save money by buying smaller plants. Many perennials or shrubs will grow quickly.
Check plants carefully - knock the plant gently out of its pot and look at the roots. A good plant will fill the pot but the roots won't be tightly pot bound.
If the plant is in flower make sure it matches the picture on the label.
Leaves should be healthy and not have holes, discolouration or ragged edges.
Search through a batch of plants until you find an attractively shaped specimen and avoid those with broken stems or branches.

2007-05-19T01:48:00.000-07:00

Asparagus, ‘the queen of vegetables’, is highly prized for its delicate taste: mellow, earthy, verdant, seductive, luxurious, full of hope for the days of brightness and sunshine ahead – in fact, almost like springtime itself.
The vegetable has been in and out of favour over the centuries, but has become immensely fashionable in the last ten years, particularly in the last two. Its increased popularity may be because it is no longer perceived as an ‘upper-class’ vegetable. Asparagus features regularly in cookery sections of women’s magazines, possibly spurred on by a growing interest in healthy eating - asparagus is an excellent source of folic acid and vitamins, and is low in fat, calories and carbohydrates. Whatever the reason, the vegetable has become more accessible.

2007-05-01T08:37:00.000-07:00

When soil is waterlogged, plants literally drown. Water fills all the air spaces between the soil particles and this prevents oxygen from reaching the roots. In turn, this causes the soil to stagnate and prevents root growth. Symptoms:
plants may look like they need water because symptoms include yellowing leaves that wither and drop off. Wilting of the plant may also occur
the surface of the soil is soaking wet with puddles on it
when lifted, the plant roots are black, soft and soggy, and the soil smells of rotten eggs
plant growth is stunted or plants fail to sprout and shoots die back

2007-04-26T07:34:00.000-07:00

courgettes
Seed can be sown in pots from March to the end of May. Fill a 7.5cm (3in) pot with compost and firm gently. Sow a seed on its side 2.5cm (1in) deep and cover. Label, water and put in a propagator or on a windowsill. When roots begin to show through the bottom of the pot, put into a 12.5cm (5in) container. Plant out into growing bags, soil or a large pot in late spring or early summer. Seed can also be sown directly into the soil from late-May to early summer. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot and improve the soil by digging in some well-rotted manure or compost. Sow two seeds on their side 2.5cm (1in) deep and once the seedlings have germinated, take out the weakest one.
Plenty of water is essential, especially when the plants are in flower and then when the fruits have started to swell.

2007-04-23T11:27:00.000-07:00

April is a busy month in the garden.
Tulipa 'Johann Strauss'
This beautiful dwarf variety is perfect for planting in containers or in the rockery. It produces currant-red flowers, edged with sulphur-yellow, with golden yellow bases in March and April. The leaves are also attractive, thanks to their purple markings. Tulips are best planted in November as this minimises the risk of attack from the fungal disease, tulip fire, which causes the foliage to become distorted and covered with fuzzy, grey fungal growth and the flowers to either fail to open or to be marked with bleached spots. Any bulbs that become infected with this disease are best thrown away and the ground they were planted in should not be used to grow any tulips for several years. Remove the flowers as they fade to prevent plants wasting energy setting seed.

2007-04-12T09:07:00.000-07:00

Growing bag
Despite only measuring 35cm x 95cm (13in x 37in), growing bags have enough space for three vegetable plants that will provide you with enough food for several meals over the summer. Plant two to three plants in each bag during spring.
Bags were traditionally used under glass and were introduced as an alternative to planting directly into greenhouse soil. Not having permanent borders meant the space could be used more efficiently throughout the year and plants would not become infected by soil-borne diseases. Today, they are still ideal for growing plants in the greenhouse, but are also perfect in a sunny spot outdoors.
Growing bags are ideal for plants that don't have deep roots, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet peppers, chilli peppers, aubergines and courgettes.

2007-04-02T09:37:00.000-07:00

Various types of onion, including spring onions, pickling onion and shallots can be successfully grown from sets or from seed, some from both.
Onion sets are small, immature onions, planted in spring or late summer. The sets increase in size and each forms one full-sized bulb when ready to harvest. Where possible, choose onion sets that have been heat-treated. This means their flower embryos have been killed, so they are less likely to run to seed or bolt. Generally, growing onions from sets is easier and more reliable than from seed and in cooler, damper areas, the sets should give a better yield of larger bulbs than if grown from seed. However the range of varieties available is far greater if growing onions from seed.
Sow seed in modules in January or February at 10 - 15°C (50-59°F). Sow five or six seeds per module in damp seed compost - when planted out the clumps of bulbs will push themselves apart as they expand.

2007-04-01T09:40:00.000-07:00

All kohlrabi crops grow best in partial-shade, in firm, fertile, free-draining soil. Start digging over your soil in autumn, removing any stones you find and working in plenty of well-rotted manure or compost. Tread on the soil to remove any air pockets and make the surface very firm. Nearly all kohlrabi should be planted in a fowerbed or in modules under glass and then transferred. Seeds should be sown thinly, as this reduces the amount of future thinning necessary and potential risk from pests. Sow seeds 1.25cm (1/2in) deep and rows should be spaced 15cm (6in) apart. Once the seeds have germinated, thin the seedlings to 7.5cm (3in) between each plant.
Cabbage and broccoli seedlings are ready for shifting when they are between 6 and 8cm high (2.5-3in). Brussels sprouts and kale should be 15cm (6in). Water the day before moving, and keep well-watered until established. Space the plants according to the instructions on the seed packet. It can vary from 30cm for small cabbages to 75cm for Brussels sprouts.

2007-03-21T12:26:00.000-07:00

cabbages
Brassicas grow best in a partially-shaded spot that has fertile, free-draining soil, free from stones. Start digging your soil in late autumn and add well-rotted manure or compost if the soil is poor.
Sow the seeds of your brassica of choice in ready-made modules according to the instructions on the packet. Your seedlings will germinate in eight to ten days and be ready for transplanting in six to eight weeks.
Prepare your planting area by raking the surface and add a general-purpose fertiliser. Tread on the soil to remove any air pockets in order to make the surface firm and then rake again.
Water the row of seedlings the day before transplanting and lift carefully, retaining as much soil as possible around the roots so they don’t dry out - the modules should make this easier.
Use a trowel or dibber to make planting holes at the required depth. If the soil is dry, fill the holes with water and begin transplanting once they have drained.

2007-03-18T00:41:00.000-07:00

Start digging over your soil in late winter or early spring, removing any stones you find and thoroughly turning the soil until it has a fine, crumbly texture. Carrots grow best in a sunny spot that has light.
Don’t add manure to the soil when you dig it over as this makes the soil too rich for the seeds. One week before sowing your seeds, rake in a light dressing of general fertiliser.
Sow the seeds thinly on a sunny, dry day in shallow drills around 2-3cm deep. Early sowings in March and April may need to be protected with fleece or a cloche in some parts of the country.
Parsnips can be grown in a similar way, but as they're larger they should be thinned to 15cm. Keep the plants well watered during their growth period - too little water results in coarse, woody roots.
From June-July onwards, start pulling up your carrots as soon as they are big enough to eat.

2007-03-13T09:02:00.000-07:00

Planting raspberries II
Once the wires are pulled across and fixed tautly between the eye bolts, use a spade to carefully dig out a 10cm (4in) deep trench along the line of the new row. It is best if you pile the soil to one side, as this makes it easier when you come to planting.
Untie the bundle of raspberry canes. The roots need to be kept moist by covering them with some damp hessian or cloth until you're ready to use each cane. Place one cane into the trench, spread the roots out and backfill the hole with soil. Use your heel to gently firm each plant in place.
Use a ruler or a stick cut to 40cm (15in) length to measure the distance between each cane before planting. Continue to plant all the canes in the same way until the whole row is in place.
After planting, encourage strong growth by pruning the canes to 25cm (10in), making a sloping cut just above a strong bud. In the spring, also mulch the row with compost, making sure this doesn't bury the canes. This will help to conserve moisture in the soil.

2007-03-10T16:39:00.000-08:00

Planting raspberries
Raspberry plants are available in late winter from nurseries, or by mail order, as freshly dug plants in bundles. They arrive in this bare-rooted state, so they will need to be planted as soon as possible. Well-maintained rows should continue cropping for ten years, so prepare the soil well before planting a fruitful investment for the years ahead. Raspberries simply require an open sunny site, preferably on well-drained, acid soil. Avoid chalky and alkaline soils that can lead to poor growth and yellowing leaves.
To work out how long the row will need to be, allow 4m (12ft) for every ten plants and a width of 90cm (3ft). To support the growing raspberries, use 7.5cm (3in) square posts cut to 3m (9ft) long. These are positioned 3m (9ft) apart and set into the ground 60cm (2ft) deep. Use screw eye bolts to make a fixing for the wires. These should be set at 75cm (30in), 1.1m (3.5ft) and 1.5m (5ft) from the ground.

2007-02-25T03:23:00.000-08:00

There are dozens of different carrot varieties, usually described as early or maincrop varieties, but also described as either short-root or long-root varieties. These names indicate when they crop and also give you an idea of the type of soil that they are suitable for. Carrots grow best in light, sandy soil. If your soil is heavy clay, stony, chalky or doesn’t drain particularly well, you should concentrate on the maincrop, short-root types as they will cope better with these conditions.
Early carrot varieties take around 12 weeks to mature and maincrop carrot varieties are ready in around 16 weeks. Maincrops take up the most space in the garden, but they tend to be the best varieties to grow if you want some for storage. You can use the same techniques for parsnips, but they need to be in the ground for longer.

2007-02-24T10:32:00.000-08:00

Where do beans grow best?
Plenty of moisture and a fertile soil are essential for a good crop of beans so avoid very dry, poor soils if possible and prepare the ground well before planting or sowing. Like most vegetables, they enjoy a lot of sunshine and prefer a fairly sheltered site with some protection from cold winds. This also helps to avoid poor pod set due to poor pollination.
Rotate crops
Choose a new site for planting each year as beans are prone to foot and root rotting diseases that build up in the soil over time.
Using containers
Beans can be grown successfully in containers and, as they are so decorative, they can be used to great effect in a small garden, a backyard, patio or even a sheltered balcony. They won't crop as well as beans grown in open ground as it is harder to keep them well watered and to provide them with a good enough root run.

2007-02-21T12:30:00.000-08:00

Sowing seeds in pots
If the soil is particularly wet or cold, direct sowing outside is best avoided for all types of beans. Sowing seeds indoors gives a faster and more reliable germination rate, particularly for runner beans. It is very important that seeds grown indoors are first 'hardened off' so that they can cope with the cooler conditions outdoors. The seedlings should be ready to plant out after about three weeks.

Sow a single bean seed per pot in multi-purpose compost at a depth of 4cm (1.5in). If using a seed tray, sow the beans 5cm (2in) apart.
Water well until the compost is thoroughly damp and repeat as necessary. The bean seed may not germinate if the compost dries out.
Label the pot clearly, and place on a sunny windowsill to germinate, which will take just a few days. When planting out, place the young plants about 15cm apart at the base of a cane. Runners are usually planted in double rows that are about 45cm apart.

2007-02-05T09:21:00.000-08:00

Grow apple trees...
5. Thoroughly water in, with at least a nine litre (two gallon) can of water. Soak the soil around your tree to settle it down among the roots. Top up with more soil to fill in any holes. Give it a can of water once a fortnight to keep surrounding soil moist so new roots can grow into it.
6. Tie side branches to support wires running along the fence from post to post. Fix each arm in several places with string or wire ties. Check these regularly as the branches quickly grow and swell, making the ties too tight, cutting into the bark and restricting growth.
7. More arms can be formed in winter by cutting out the main shoot tip about 45cm (18in) above the last tier. Shoots develop from this. Leave one to grow up and gently tie those on either side to horizontal training wires at the end of the year to form the next tier.
8. Regularly tie down new growth at the ends of each branch to stop it growing upwards. Tie down branches at the end of each season to form new tiers. This process can be continued for many years, forming more and more arms to cover a wall or fence.

2007-02-04T10:00:00.000-08:00

1. Pick a sunny, open site near a south or west-facing fence. Dig a wide, deep planting hole in front of a post, so the branches of the tree can be trained to cover the fence panels on either side. Make the hole near the fence so the tree can be positioned very close to it.
2. Prepare the planting hole well, because an apple tree will fruit for years if given a good start. Fork over the base of the hole, breaking up the subsoil to improve drainage, and mix in well-rotted compost. Sprinkle in a generous handful of fertiliser and dig it in.
3. Soak the roots of bare-rooted apple trees in water for a few hours before planting. The hole needs to be large enough for the roots to be spread out, so dig it out a little more if it looks cramped. This tree has two tiers of branches ready to be trained on support wires.
4. Fill in around the roots, using soil improved with added compost and fertiliser. Tease it in among the roots, firming gently to remove any air pockets. Ensure the bulbous graft union at the base of the stem sits above soil level. This should never be buried.

2007-01-26T10:51:00.000-08:00

One of the easiest and best ways to extract the medicinal properties of the herbs is to make a tisane, or herb tea, which can be drunk just like ordinary tea, and can provide a helpful supplement to the daily diet. To obtain the best flavour I always recommend using fresh herbs, but remember that they are less concentrated than dried herbs, as they still contain all their moisture. One of my favourite teas is lemon verbena, which has a lovely flavour and aroma, and is refreshing served hot or cold either on a summer's day, or last thing at night to help me get a good night's sleep.
How to make a herbal tea or tisane
Generally you need either five fresh leaves or a sprig, 5cm (2 in) in length or 2 tsp of dried herb or 1 tsp of seed per cup of boiled water. Place them on a clean piece of kitchen towel, lightly crush, and then add to a cup or teapot. Pour over the boiled water that has been cooled to just below boiling and cover.
Covering is especially important as this stops the essential oils, which are medicinally beneficial, evaporating off in the steam. Leave to brew for five minutes. Strain if necessary into a cup. Herb teas rarely require milk, but may be sweetened with honey to taste.

2007-01-24T09:14:00.000-08:00

Herbs, in most cases, are tough wild plants which, when spoilt by the lush conditions of a garden, will thrive and romp away. It's a myth that all herbs like full sun, even good old basil likes partial shade at midday. So when planning your garden, you can divide your plants into two sections, those like thyme, sage, rosemary, french tarragon and oregano that like full sun; and those that like partial shade, such as rocket, sorrel, mizuna, mustard, parsley and chervil.
Containers and window boxes
If I had to choose some 'must haves' to put in a window box on the sunny side of the house I would include chives, oregano, lemon thyme and a creeping rosemary to drape over the edge. However, on the shady side of the house I would have a salad herb window box which would include wild rocket, chervil, French parsley and red mustard.
When growing herbs in containers, I have two important tips. The first is to use a soil-based compost, either organic or something like potting compost. This is because there are very few herbs that grow in peat, and a soil-based compost retains moisture which is a must to stop containers drying out. I also advise watering in the morning rather than the evening because this gives the plants a chance if the temperatures are hot during the day, especially for containers grown in full sun. The second tip is to feed container plants weekly from March until September. This keeps the plants healthy, helps them produce leaves, especially on cut and come again salads. I use a seaweed-based feed, however you can use any proprietary feeds that boost leaf production

2007-01-22T12:55:00.000-08:00

Healing properties
Herbs are the quintessential plant: they look good, smell good and do you good. They have been used ever since humans have been on the earth, as medicines, perfumes, insect repellents and, of course, in food and flavouring. This huge group of plants includes trees, shrubs, annuals and even cacti, to name but a few.
The most important thing to remember when growing herbs is that they are the foundation of all modern medicine. They are not the gentle namby-pamby things some would like you to think. They are healers, therefore they should be treated with respect, and if you are considering them for specific medicinal use always consult a doctor or qualified herbalist. If you are growing herbs for use in the kitchen then you need to learn about their flavour and how they can aid digestion.

2007-01-11T08:13:00.000-08:00

Bark - is especially useful for preventing competitive weed and grass growth in island beds; any young weeds that do appear through it are easily removed with a hoe. It is sold in three grades; coarse, medium and large. Each is equally effective as a mulch but differs in ornamental appearance and the speed at which it breaks down in the soil.
Path with gravel - lay a fibre membrane where the path is to be sited and cover it with a 5cm (2in) gravel layer. The membrane will act as an underground mulch, stopping weeds from growing, so a hardcore layer under the gravel can be omitted, thus reducing costs.

Leaf-mould is made of leaves that have rotted down over time, and makes a fantastic free garden conditioner. So, when you're sweeping up all those autumn leaves, don't look on it as a chore, but as a real benefit for your garden.

2007-01-08T06:18:00.000-08:00

Mulch II.
Gravel and grit - alpine plants are small and slow-growing and must have a well-drained soil to grow well in a rock garden. By applying a thin layer of coarse gravel or grit around them, not only are competitive weed numbers kept under control, but the soil drainage is improved and rotting avoided because harmful winter rains quickly run through it.
Pebbles - large pebbles create strong visual impact on the surface of containers while reducing water loss. They also ensure that the dusty surface of the compost will remain undisturbed if pots are sited by open windows.
Grass clippings - an excellent mulch available in the summer is grass clippings. These can be spread around plants or used to cover the odd gap on the soil surface and can be collected later and incorporated into the compost heap. It is less ornamental than cocoa shells, so use it at the back of borders where it won't be seen. It is great value as it is free, whether from your own lawn or a neighbour's. If weedkiller has been used on the lawn, then do not use the clippings for four cuts.

2007-01-04T07:53:00.000-08:00

Mulch is used in the garden for many reasons. It helps the soil retain moisture, provides nutrients, discourages weeds, provides drainage, insulates the soil in winter and cools it in summer, provides food for soil creatures and improves soil structure.
Cocoa shells - made from cocoa shells, this mulch is ideal for flowerbeds. It is pleasant to handle and has a strong smell of chocolate. After a few weeks, the shells bind together to make a loosely knitted, porous mat over the soil surface, which provides excellent ground cover in larger borders where weeding can be difficult and time consuming. This binding effect means that a 5cm (2in) mulch layer will be adequate wherever it is used.
Manure - well-rotted manure can be bought from garden centres. In the fruit or vegetable garden, it provides a rich base of nutrients as it decomposes. When applying it to borders in spring, always use well-rotted manure and lay it 7.5cm (3in) thick. Unrotted manure should only be applied in autumn, in a layer 5cm to 7.5cm (2in to 3in) thick. Always wear gloves when handling manure.

2007-01-02T09:42:00.000-08:00

Place a layer of broken crocks in the base of the trough. This will help drainage and ensure that the roots are never sitting in water.
Fill the trough with compost to within 12.5cm (5in) of the rim. As the container will be quite heavy when filled do this close to where the pot will permanently stand.
Mix a few handfuls of horticultural grit into the top of the compost. This will further improve the drainage of the pot and stop the plant roots and base of stems from rotting.

Place your selection of plants in the trough, ensuring that trailing types will hang over the edges. Choose a position off-centre for the conifer for a more natural effect.
Plant the alpines in the compost, starting in one corner and working towards the opposite edge. Make sure that any gaps between each of the plants and the trough edges are firmly filled.
To finish the trough, sprinkle a thin layer of horticultural grit around each plant. This will stop slugs from attacking plants and prevents competitive moss and algae growing.
Remove fallen leaves from the container's surface in autumn. If these are left on and start to rot, the plants underneath can be damaged.
Protect from excessive winter wet by moving the pot into a sheltered site or covering when necessary with glass sheeting.
Feed the trough each spring.
In hot or windy weather, keep the plants well watered to ensure they do not dry out.
Watch out for slug damage and sprinkle slug pellets or extra grit around susceptible plants as necessary.

2006-12-28T05:45:00.000-08:00

When art nouveau was showcased first in Paris and then in London, there was outrage; people either loved it or loathed it. Within the style itself there are two distinct looks: curvy lines and the more austere, linear look of artists such as Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Some aspects of art nouveau were revived again in the 1960s.
Style
sinuous, elongated, curvy lines
the whiplash line
vertical lines and height
stylised flowers, leaves, roots, buds and seedpods
the female form - in a pre-Raphaelite pose with long, flowing hair
exotic woods, marquetry, iridescent glass, silver and semi-precious stones
Influences
arts and crafts - art nouveau shared the same belief in quality goods and fine craftsmanship but was happy with mass production
rococo style
botanical research

2006-12-26T10:26:00.000-08:00

Arts and crafts (c.1860 to 1910)
The arts and crafts movement was made up of English designers and writers who wanted a return to well-made, handcrafted goods instead of mass-produced, poor quality machine-made items.
Style
handmade
simple forms with little ornamentation
beauty of natural materials
copper and pewter - often with a hammered finish
stylised flowers, allegories from the Bible and literature, upside down hearts, Celtic motifs
Influences
-medieval styles
-socialism - the ideas of John Ruskin and early Marx, especially the dehumanising effects of industrialization
-the Orient - the pared-down quality of Japanese art

2006-12-08T10:48:00.000-08:00

1960s
Pop art and op art both had a firm footing in the 1960s. Artists such as Andy Warhol and David Hockney with their pop art references to mass culture (soup cans, comic strips, images of icons like Marilyn Monroe) crossed over into interiors, and on to murals, wallpaper and posters. Similarly, op art with its use of pattern and colour to simulate movement found its way on to everything from furniture to wallpaper. Artists such as Bridget Riley, who works predominantly in black and white, became the vogue. Whether you choose the hippy ethnic look or plastic space age, it will be far out.

Style
plastic and PVC
disposable, throwaway
multi-purpose furniture
low-level
revivalist
fun, witty

Influences
art nouveau - the whiplash lines and stylised flower shapes were revived in the 1960s and metamorphosed into psychedelia
space age - capsule and pod-shaped furniture
travel - ornaments, rugs and anything brought back from hippy pilgrimages to India and especially Morocco
cinema - the line between fantasy and reality is blurred as rooms were based on film sets; scenes from films such as Help! and Barbarella were recreated in magazines like House and Garden, showing readers how to get the look

2006-12-03T12:47:00.000-08:00

1950s
Open plan - make your house as open plan as possible. If you can, knock through walls but always consult a structural engineer first to check if it's a supporting or load-bearing wall. Mezzanine levels are also typically 1950s.
Floor - lay a chequerboard vinyl floor in black and white, red and white, or yellow and white. Use floor tiles rather than one continuous sheet because, if a section of floor gets irreparably damaged, they're far easier to replace.
Fitted kitchen - in your fitted kitchen, choose Formica tabletops. Spray paint the doors and fittings. Some companies sell original reconditioned kitchens or sell new ones in a similar style and you can sometimes pick up cabinets in junk shops.
Chairs - go for the diner look in the kitchen with chairs in chrome and vinyl in day-glo colours. Give a table a new lease of life with a Formica or Fablon top. Other typical 1950s furniture are basketweave chairs in a primary colour and white or 'Butterfly' chairs (a canvas sling on a metal frame).
Fridge - a gigantic fridge is essential, especially in a bright colour. They're all over the high street or you can get original reconditioned ones.
Appliances - fill the kitchen with big chrome appliances: blenders, toasters, and swing bins in chrome or plastic.
Shades - choose between bright colours such as red, lime green, yellow, black, and delicious ice cream shades such as pistachio green, bubblegum pink and pale blue.
Fireplaces - rooms generally don't have fireplaces. Abandon the dado rail, paper and cornice division of walls.

2006-11-29T11:23:00.000-08:00

1950s
The 1950s were the age of the consumer. The post-war boom brought massive changes in the home; it was out with the old and in with the new. Open-plan living was introduced, and the fitted kitchen with its brand new appliances was the housewife's domain.
Houses were smaller than pre-war ones so furniture had to stack or be light enough to move about; trolleys, sofa beds and ironing boards are all 1950s inventions.
Style
open plan
fitted kitchens
primary colours
stacking furniture
new materials - PVC, Formica, fibreglass, rubber, melamine, aluminium, vinyl, plastics
abstract, geometric patterns
animal prints

2006-11-26T12:14:00.000-08:00

1930s
Get the look
Floors - lino is practical and hardwearing. A mottled effect will suit nearly all colour schemes.
Seating - the three-piece suite is a 1930s invention. Choose a two or three-seat settee with two armchairs. Make sure they are all covered in the same material, such as a moquette (a woollen velvet, furry to the touch) with geometric designs.
Armchairs - brown leather armchairs in boxy shapes are both in keeping and timeless classics. Leather only looks better with age.
Lighting - lighting was mass-produced from industrial materials such as chrome, glass, opaque and frosted glass. For a modernist look, look for simple globe forms or simple tubes that can be arranged in groups like sculptures.
Colour schemes - choose subtle colour schemes such as eau de nil (a pale green), pale blue and pink, buff, beige and coffee.
Fireplaces - fireplaces should be tiled in plain tiles - often brown or green with a speckled effect - with a stepped profile typical of art deco.
Ceiling - in an art deco-inspired room you could paint the ceiling silver for a stunning effect.
Veneer - often used with a layer of a more expensive wood such as oak or an exotic fruitwood stuck or sandwiched onto a cheaper plywood.
Display - find a glass-fronted cabinet to display the best china, such as Clarice Cliff or Susie Cooper.
Windows - position stained glass in the top panel of front windows, and panels in French windows and doors. Typical designs are galleon ships and sunbursts. Moderne houses don't have the stained glass panels.
Bed - choose silky satin eiderdowns to cover the entire bed.

2006-11-20T06:00:00.000-08:00

Inside, the art deco style with its striking colours of red, black, and silver, its exoticism and animal prints sits happily alongside reproductions of Tudor furniture with a Moderne chair in leather and tubular steel. The three-piece suite came into use, most homes had plumbed-in kitchens, and three out of four households had a radio.

Style
streamlined
boxy shapes
Bakelite - a type of plastic used for everything from radio casings to telephones and light switches
chrome
modernism
art deco

Influences
modernism, art deco and Scandinavian design (modern)
historical styles such as Tudor, Jacobean and Georgian
cinema - 20 million people went every week
sun - people loved sunbathing and built flat roofs, pergolas and balconies as sun traps
The names
Alvar Aalto - Finnish furniture designer
George Nelson - American furniture designer
Clarice Cliff - potter
Keith Murray - designed ceramics for Wedgwood
At the time
1936 Edward VIII abdicates to marry Wallis Simpson
1936 Spanish Civil War
1937 To Have and Have Not, Ernest Hemingway
1939 The Wizard of Oz
1939 Hitler invades Poland - war breaks out in Europe

2006-11-07T08:16:00.000-08:00

1920s
Furniture - choose strong streamlined shapes for furniture and in single pieces rather than suites. Look for modern classics by Le Corbusier and Eileen Gray. Reproductions and re-issues can be found.
Floor - plain polished parquet is perfect for floors. Linoleum in abstract designs or black and white chequerboard vinyl tiles are also typical.
Rug - floors would have been overlaid with a large rug in geometric patterns. Go for a huge circular one as the centrepiece to the room.
Fireplaces - fireplaces should be rectangular and bold with a stepped profile.
Colour schemes - halls suit bold colours such as silver, black, chrome, and black and white. For real dramatic impact, why not silver-leaf your entire ceiling or black-gloss your floor.
Lighting - lights featuring female figures holding the ball of the lamp are typical and good reproductions abound. Also look for chrome, a brand new material at the time, and glass. Glass would have been etched, sandblasted or enamelled rather than coloured.
Walls - keep walls plain and free from decorative plasterwork. Use a coat of varnish on top for a really glossy sheen.
Fabrics - choose shiny light-reflective fabrics or plain fabrics with metallic threads.
Accessories - add a striking painting or one statue rather than a clutter of objects. For real authenticity, look for light switches etc in Bakelite, a plastic resin. Add touches of opulence with items such as tortoiseshell and enamel cigarette boxes and mother-of-pearl letter openers.

At the time
1921 The Kid by Charlie Chaplin
1926 Television first demonstrated
1926 Rudolph Valentino dies
1927 Al Jolson in The Jazz Singer, the first talking picture
1929 Wall Street Crash

2006-11-05T13:14:00.000-08:00

1920s
In the home, modernism was taking off in Europe with the setting up of the Bauhaus, and shocking the world with its pared-down austere look. Architects began designing objects for the home, such as coffee sets and radios, as well as buildings. In the middle of the decade, art deco was showcased in Paris and became the major new style.
The decade known for its decadence ended with the Wall Street Crash, which plunged America and consequently much of Europe into economic depression.
Style
glamorous and sophisticated
geometric and angular shapes
chrome, glass, shiny fabrics, mirrors and mirror tiles
stylised images of aeroplanes, cars, cruise liners and skyscrapers
nature motifs
exotic touches from the Orient, Africa and Egypt
Influences
art deco and modernism.
early Hollywood - the glamorous world of the silver screen filtered through to design. Cocktail cabinets and smoking paraphernalia became highly fashionable.
travel - African safaris were all the rage, especially animal skins, ivory, mother-of-pearl and tortoiseshell.

2006-10-28T12:21:00.000-07:00

Does your living room need updating but you don’t know where to start?

Step 1
“Start with a fabric you love and then worry about what to do with it.”
High street department stores, specialist haberdasheries or even markets are great places to find a good selection of materials. Or you may find an accessory, such as a rug, throw or cushion that catches your eye.
Whatever you choose, this will form the basis of your colour palette for the room and gives you something to build on.
Step 2
Use pattern to pick up colours
Patterned fabrics are great for dressing up a room and giving it a fresh look. They can be used in a number of ways:
Cover furniture or parts of furniture, from a chair cushion to an entire sofa
Create panels or borders for curtains
Cover a screen. A useful style tip for the ‘pattern-novice’ as the screen can always be re-covered or moved to a different room if you change your mind. Another benefit is that you can take it with you when you move house
Stripes can bring together a range of colours and can be useful for giving you a palette to work with.

2006-10-19T12:18:00.000-07:00

Texture
Texture is a designer's way of adding three-dimensional quality to a space.
Texture relies on natural light and lighting effects within a room, to show its diverse character and ability to change colour and pattern.

Matt versus gloss
Different types of texture can either add a feeling of luxury or simplicity. The smooth, hard surfaces, often associated with sophisticated contemporary interiors, can be complemented by deep pile rugs and soft upholstery.
Matt surfaces in dark colours soak up light and will add depth and distance eg deep blue ceilings imitating the sky. Traditional distemper paint gives a beautiful powder-matt finish to ceilings or use matt emulsion for easy application.
Glossy lacquered kitchen doors are smart, chic and reflect light, but they can accentuate noise levels, particularly when combined with stainless steel, granite or slate work surfaces.

2006-10-18T11:33:00.000-07:00

The current, consumerist habit of chucking out furniture every few years is bad news for the environment. In order to begin being more eco-friendly in your interior, the first question to ask yourself before you buy is "Do I really need it?" Do you have anything else that will suffice? For example, can an old table be restored? Can chairs be re-covered or mended?

Tips for buying
Prices for items vary enormously depending on where you are in the country and the condition of the product. Do some research before you start so you have an idea of what to expect.
Take someone with you who can give you an honest second opinion and help you check the item over.
Take a tape measure and relevant measurements from your house if necessary (for example, if you're buying a bath or sink).
If you do want an old sink or bath, you need to consider whether your bathroom/kitchen can support the weight - cast iron baths are extremely heavy!

2006-10-15T08:35:00.000-07:00

The talking washing machine - now there are no excuses for being able to use the washing machine. The Zanussi Voice washing machine talks you though the controls and even offers some words of comfort for those who get stressed out by the experience, advising the user to 'relax' once the relevant programme is selected.
Cool communication - as well as doing everything a fridge does, the Electrolux Screen Fridge has a 38cm (15in) touch screen which is connected to broadband, TV and radio. It also features a calendar and organiser, a message system and phone and MP3 connections. This means you can do your shopping, book a holiday, watch your favourite programme and know when your kids' dental appointment is just before you reach for the milk.
Clever cleaner - never before has vacuuming been so much fun! The Trilobite from Electrolux is a robotic cleaner that uses ultrasound to scan the room for dirt. Then it simply gets on and does the job. And it even knows when it's had enough, making it's own way back to the charger when it runs out of battery.

2006-10-13T06:46:00.000-07:00

The trend for covering one wall means you can be more adventurous in your choice of wallpaper as it’s not as daunting as papering a whole room. It also enables you to make a feature of a wall or enhance a focal point, such as a sideboard or painting.
Instead of giving that old side-table the car boot treatment, give it a new lease of life by covering the top with some brightly coloured fabric wallcovering. Could be perfect for a kids playtable or a new addition to the conservatory.
Add some colour to doors and cupboards by putting wallpaper on panels. Choose the scale of the pattern carefully though: if the space is too small and the scale too large, the pattern will get lost.
Large-scale prints will make a wall appear smaller. Similarly, small-scale ones will give the illusion of space.
For the really adventurous, add a twist on tradition by wallpapering a ceiling. This works particularly well with high ceilings, such as those in period properties.

2006-10-08T11:22:00.000-07:00

The revival of wallpaper
As 90s minimalism makes way for a colour revolution we see the return of wallpaper.
The use of digital technology means that a new range of complex, detailed imagery is possible, offering an alternative to more commonly-used patterns and prints. Examples include photography, 3D images and geometric designs.
One new innovation is magnetic wallpaper, which enables you to continue the design process at home. Companies such as Magscapes provide magnetic motifs which can be placed anywhere on the chosen background.
For those with a bit more ambition (and cash), there are moving wallpapers which create constantly changing images. These are not yet widely available and are very expensive but guarantee a talking point if you can afford it.

2006-10-03T09:11:00.000-07:00

Children's rooms
Kids have slightly different lighting needs from adults. Safety takes centre stage. Next, the most important thing to remember is that the scheme should change as they get older. There are all sorts of fun, decorative lights aimed at children, from aeroplanes to rotating carousels.
For babies, you need low-level lighting so you can see during those frequent trips in the night to feed, change and comfort. Try a plug-in nightlight or small lamp with a shade and low-wattage bulb - no more than 12V.

Ensure prying fingers can't open the fitting or get at the hot bulb or electrical wiring.
Use wall-mounted lights rather than freestanding lamps that can be knocked over easily.
Dimmers work wonders - they help to prepare a child mentally for bedtime.
If your child has a computer or television in their room, don't let them watch it in total darkness. It's better for their eyes to use low-level light, either from a dimmed light or from a table lamp with the beam directed at the ceiling.

2006-10-01T13:00:00.000-07:00

Bedroom delight
The right light will help you wind down and get a good night's sleep. But you also need strong lighting so you can get dressed in the morning - you don't want to leave the house wearing one brown sock and one blue.
The most important bedroom light is the one beside your bed - useful for when one of you wants to read or watch TV and the other wants to sleep. You can mount bedside lights on the wall, hotel-style, or fix them behind or into the bedhead, use wall-mounted downlighters or simple table lamps beside the bed.
Lights that are built into the bedhead don't cater for extremes of height, and you might also find you have to lie at a certain angle to be comfortable. If you do use them and you have a double bed, put them on separate switches. An inexpensive table lamp on a bedside cabinet or chair is a great solution - make sure it's high enough to read by and shaded so it doesn't shine right in your face.

2006-09-28T02:55:00.000-07:00

For perfect bathroom lighting...

To maximise natural daylight, take down blinds, fussy curtains and unnecessary window dressing . If you're worried about being overlooked, a cheap solution is to frost your window - either pay a glazier or use a frosting-effect spray from DIY stores.
If you have only a harsh central light operated by a pull cord, one of the easiest ways to create instant ambience is to ask an electrician to fit a dimmer switch just outside the bathroom door instead.
Replace existing fittings with frosted ones - you'll immediately get a lovely diffused light.
Stud the ceiling with several low-voltage spotlights or downlighters, which wash the walls with light. Downlighters cast pools of light onto the surface below and are great for water and glass. Get your builder to put in a false ceiling to hide the wiring.
Fit downlighers with a dimmer. You don't want to be blinded by the light when you go to the loo in the night.
To light your mirror, install a row of lightbulbs, dressing-room style, around it. They give a good, even light from all sides. If that look's not your style, fit diffused wall lights on each side. Either way, avoid a single strip above the mirror or you'll end up with shadows below your nose and above your mouth. If the light's too soft, it will flatter your skin but you won't be able to see well enough to get your make-up right. If it's too bright, it will give you a ghostly pallor.
Put all the lights on different switches so you can alter the mood - for shaving you could use the lights round the mirror and a wall light but, when you're in the bath, just the wall light dimmed right down and a few candles.
If you have a period bathroom you can fit shades to wall-mounted fittings, but they must be approved for bathroom use.

2006-09-24T12:24:00.000-07:00

Bathroom beauty
European safety regulations are rightly rigorous, stating that bathroom fittings must be completely encased to avoid shorting and electric shocks, and double insulated with the bulb and all metal parts covered. Don't ever be tempted to use a conventional light fitting that's not intended for bathroom use. Light switches must be either outside the bathroom or fitted with a pull cord.
When the lighting in a bathroom is done well, it can look stunning; just think of all the materials that were made to be bathed in light - porcelain, glass, stainless steel and marble. Be careful, though - with all those reflective surfaces, it's easy to create a glare nightmare.
If you've inherited a dingy, depressing bathroom or want to update your old one, there are lots of things you can do with the wiring that's already there. Plan the lighting carefully if you're fitting a brand-new bathroom. If the new tiles have been laid over the cabling, for example, it will be very hard to change.

2006-09-21T12:09:00.000-07:00

If you have a central pendant light but want to illuminate a different area, put it on a longer cord then put a small hook into the ceiling above where you need the light and clip it over. This works particularly well over tables.
Replacing your central pendant light with two (or more) ceiling-mounted fittings set wide apart will allow the light to flow much more evenly to either side.
Buy an inexpensive clip light and clamp it on where you need extra task light.
Put mini fluorescent lights underneath wall units. They spread a good level of light over work surfaces. Choose an 8 watt bulb in warm white.
Paint the kitchen ceiling matt white and keep the walls above the units a pale colour.
Choose a light coloured kitchen, such as birch or pale laminate.
If your sink is at the window, fit a light in the window's pelmet.
Fit a track system with directional lights you can position over the work surface and the sink. This will mean you won't need to do any rewiring.
Install strips against the wall above wall-mounted units - they'll throw light upwards to give an all-round glow (this only works with a white ceiling).
Fit rows of downlighters into the ceiling - they emit light exactly where it is needed and give good colour rendition. Also, because they're recessed, they're shielded from grease and dirt. Don't worry about spacing them out evenly intervals or lining them up exactly - if you do, it can look like an airport runway. Concentrate on where you need the light to fall rather than their position on the ceiling.

2006-09-19T12:09:00.000-07:00

Kitchen schemes
For most of us, the kitchen is the room where we spend the most time, preparing food, eating and entertaining. Proper lighting can help make it safe, hygienic and enjoyable.A central pendant light gives a good general lighting, but if that's all you have you'll be forever working in your own shadow and cooking will be a headache - literally. Whatever the shape or size of your kitchen, the light should come from behind or to the side of where you're working - not in front. You also need a high level of task lighting at the sink, the cooker, the fridge and worktops, especially for chopping vegetables.
Kitchen light should be a similar to true daylight so you can see when food is cooked or off. Don't plug lights into sockets that are overloaded with appliances such as toasters and food processors. And don't put lights in places where they could dazzle you while you're carrying boiling water or sharp implements.
If you're buying a new kitchen, you'll find that most modern ones come with built-in lights, or you can mix and match pieces from the kitchen supplier. Items like cooker hoods come with in-built illumination. Cupboards can have built-in lights that are triggered when the door's opened.

2006-09-16T12:08:00.000-07:00

Our living rooms are now multi-purpose spaces used for everything from watching television and reading to dining, entertaining and hobbies. With a flexible lighting scheme, you can create the illusion of different spaces for different activities, all within one room.
The lounge is where accent lighting really comes into its own: use it to highlight collections of books, glass, pictures, plants, ornaments or just one cherished piece to make a real statement.
Choose tungsten bulbs for a rosy, welcoming glow. Don't restrict yourself by making your lighting plan too fixed. For example, don't position recessed downlighters at either end of the sofa or above other items of furniture, as you may want to move it all around at a later date.
Reading and watching television
If you want to read in an armchair, place the light to one side, behind and above your chair.
Fit a floor plug to make your lighting more flexible.
Watching television in total darkness is not a good idea - your eye constantly has to shift focus to follow the images, and the contrast between the bright screen and the dark room may cause eye strain.
If too much natural daylight is coming in, you'll barely see the screen at all. Place the light either behind or beside the television.

2006-09-01T04:52:00.000-07:00

Electric light
You can never light a room as efficiently as the sun so think of electric light as atmospheric background - it can create a cosy environment or a really dramatic one.
Choose something more versatile than a single bulb hanging from the centre of the ceiling. Use directional lights on a track, which can be used to highlight your favourite painting or mirror.
Layer the lighting throughout the room so you have the right kind for your different needs, such as ceiling lights, table lamps and uplighters.
Put a floor socket in the middle of the room, so you don't have trailing leads across the floor.
Highlight architectural features, such as ceiling coving, with uplighters.
Each lighting type should be controlled separately to prevent the room from looking like Blackpool illuminations.

2006-08-25T00:12:00.000-07:00

To maximise natural light:
Let light come through windows without interruptions. Remove secondary glazing, which absorbs light, and objects from window sills. Replace heavy curtains with blinds or muslin drapes.
Mirrors amplify light. Place a large mirror opposite the window to reflect light around the room.
Choose light and bright paint colours. Shades such as pale green, blue and lilac will make a room look larger whereas red, orange, brown and black absorb will light and make it look smaller and darker. As a rule of thumb, the lighter the paint - the closer to white - the more reflective it is.
Colours that work well in bright, hot climates such as Italy look different in grey British daylight. Terracotta, for example, looks much duller.
Your choice of flooring will affect how light a room is. Carpets are soft, absorbent and hold the light whereas floorboards with a high-gloss finish reflect it around the room.
Keep small, dark rooms bright and fresh, with as little pattern as possible. This will make the space look larger and lighter.

2006-08-17T08:42:00.000-07:00

Professional fitters
Lighting is often seen as a technical minefield, but many lights are easy to put in and require no more than an understanding of basic electrical concepts. You should be able to change a fuse, wire a 13 amp plug and know how to select the correct size of fuse so that you don't overload a circuit.
Always read the instructions for any fitting and keep them for future reference. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician. Once you get into changing the permanent wiring of your house, complicated track lighting and computer-activated lighting systems, it's time to call in the pros.
Standard lamp
A tall, freestanding light with a heavy base, which moves up, downand sideways.
Track
Several spotlights or floodlights can be attached to a track to take rows of LVTH or mains-voltage lights with no need for a transfomer. You can use more than one circuit, so you can have all the lights on at once or just some.

2006-08-09T10:15:00.000-07:00

Glare
There are two types of glare - direct and indirect.
Direct glare occurs when you look at a bare bulb - you'll get spots before your eyes and maybe see a lasting image, especially if you're in a darkened room.
Indirect glare is caused by a reflection of light, perhaps in a television or computer screen or even a polished surface. Avoid it by positioning lights so you can't see the bulbs directly. Pendants hanging at eye level are especially uncomfortable for dinner guests.

Pendant lights
These usually hang from the centre of the room. Used alone, they're the main cause of the 'interrogation cell' look. Although they're a good starter for general lighting, they need a boost from other sources.
They tend to flatten shadows and cast a dim light. It helps to fit a dimmer or hang them on an adjustable flex so you can change the height or clip them out of the way. They come in a myriad of styles, from the ubiquitous paper lantern to chandeliers.

2006-08-01T10:04:00.000-07:00

Downlighters
They cast distinct pools of light onto the surface below. They're usually recessed into the ceiling or mounted on the surface and can be fixed or directional. They suit modern and period homes, but you might not have enough recess in the ceiling or prefer not to cut into it and disrupt plasterwork or period detail.
Install downlighters in areas where fixtures are unlikely to move, such as above kitchen and bathroom surfaces, rather than at the ends of furniture. Without wall lights the effect can be gloomy, and rows of them can make you feel as though you're in a shop.
Energy saving
Lighting empty rooms and using bulbs of the wrong wattage for the fittings are two of the most common ways to waste energy.
Try these simple ways to cut down your electricity bills and help save the planet.
Turn lights off when you leave the room.
Replace ordinary bulbs with low-energy ones, especially those you leave burning for four hours or more. You might have to pay more up front - £5 as opposed to £1 - but you'll save in the long run. They're available in many shapes and sizes, although some can't be used with dimmers.
Look for CFLs - they use 25 per cent less energy than ordinary bulbs and last up to 13 times longer.
Fit timers and dimmer switches. Motion sensors that turn on and off when you enter and leave are already being installed in some houses although they're expensive at the moment.

2006-07-31T11:54:00.000-07:00

Tungsten halogen
Known simply as halogen bulbs, they burn at a much higher heat than tungsten and the case has to be made from quartz rather than glass to withstand the temperature.
Light: whiter and purer than tungsten.
Available: in low voltage (low-voltage tungsten halogen or LVTH) and mains voltage. For the former, you'll need a transformer, fitted or inbuilt, to keep the wattage down to 12 volts.
Ideal for: uplighters.
Advantages: energy-efficient. With low-voltage bulbs, the design can be slim and compact. The mains-voltage type can be used in conventional fittings without a transformer, but ask your electrician or manufacturer to be sure.
Disadvantage: expensive to replace.
Fluorescent
They're associated with the harsh, buzzing strips of factories and offices, but they're now available in lots of new varieties.
Light: flat (curved and circular tubes are better).
Available in: compact fluorescent tubes and compact fluorescent bulbs (known as compact fluorescent lamps or CFLs) that look like ordinary ones.
Ideal for: mini strip lights in kitchens.
Advantages: energy efficient and economic. Can be used with mains-voltage fittings.
Disadvantages: can't be fitted with dimmers.

2006-07-28T05:22:00.000-07:00

Bulbs
Follow our simple guide to which bulbs should be used for which purpose, and you won't go wrong.
Remember: never to put a higher wattage bulb than the fitting instructions suggest; and buy the highest wattage allowed then control it with a dimmer.
Tungsten (incandescent)
The everyday household bulb.
Light: warm, yellowish.
Available in: clear, pearl, silver reflector or coloured versions with bayonet cap (BC), small bayonet cap (SBC), Edison screw (ES or E27) and small Edison screw (SES or E14). The clear type is best when the bulb is visible, in a chandelier for example, whereas the silver reflector is perfect for spotlights.
Ideal for: creating warmth, cosiness, intimacy.
Advantages: cheap and easy to find. They use mains electricity and don't need transformers or additional equipment.
Disadvantages: if you use a wattage that's too high your paper shade might get scorched, which could be dangerous. Constantly switching them on and off will shorten the lifespan. They tend to blow suddenly.

2006-07-23T07:50:00.000-07:00

Task lighting
This is what you need to do a specific job, whether it's reading, working at a computer, cooking, drawing or sewing. It needs to be focused on the area you're using.
If light seeps out, you're likely to get glare from other surfaces, especially computer screens. Task lights come with tungsten, halogen or fluorescent bulbs, the Anglepoise being the best example.
What to look for in a task light
Go for a fully adjustable Anglepoise-style lamp, especially a cantilevered one, that can be angled and lowered.
Don't skimp on the price of your angled lamp. If the stem is too short it will be hard to get it high enough over your work, which will cause shadows. The more manoeuvrability the better.
Use inexpensive pull-down pendants or clip-ons.
Clip-on spotlights are useful, as you can move them to wherever they're needed.
Your light should be able to take a 60 watt bulb at least, as it must be brighter than the others in the room.
Working with task lights
Place the lamp opposite your writing hand or you'll be working in your own shadow. The beam of the light should fall on your working area and not reflect onto your computer screen. If there's no space on your desk for a lamp, fit a strip light above it.

2006-07-19T01:51:00.000-07:00

Natural light
To make the most of the natural light available in your home, you need to know how to use it. Think about which rooms to use for what - you don't have to stick to the estate agent's details. And remember that daylight changes throughout the year. With the grey northern light in Britain, we don't have to worry about screening out strong sun, but you might find bright summer light uncomfortable to sit in. Conversely, harsh winter sunlight can make everything appear flat.
If you work from home, you'll need good task lighting as well as natural light. Avoid putting your desk in the window, as the light will be too intense - about 1m away is ideal.

Hang mirrors, particularly opposite windows.
Take down unnecessary window dressings and replace with filmy materials, such as voile and muslin, to diffuse light. Block out harsh sunlight with perforated roller blinds.
Put a fanlight over a door.
Turn an inner door into a glazed panel, or replace it with stained or clear glass.
Trim trees or bushes that overshadow windows.
Use light-reflective surfaces, and pale carpets and furnishings.

2006-07-14T08:06:00.000-07:00

Lighting for occasions
When hosting a party, lighting is of the utmost importance for creating the right ambience. By experimenting with different types of lighting, the mood of a room can change from calm and romantic to energising and vibrant. Create a bright, warm glow with a combination of subtle light sources with an emphasis on accent lighting. Reflective surfaces such as mirrors can be used to bounce candlelight around the room and crystals, diamonds, mirror balls and reflective baubles are ideal for adding that extra festive sparkle.
Highlight certain areas of the room, such as the fireplace with fairy lights. Drape lights around dried-flowers or willow stems, or place on the mantlepiece to create a shimmering glow. Depending on the occasion, use different-coloured lights and bulbs and adjust the flicker speed on fairy lights for a party feel.
Make a large room with high ceilings appear cosier, by adding several types of small lamps, singularly or in clusters to create low pools of light. Also, consider shadows when arranging your lights and add pierced-lanterns or light shades to create unusual patterns on the walls and ceilings.

2006-07-01T07:42:00.000-07:00

Making your plan
Now take a piece of graph paper and draw a plan of your room to help you work out the best places to put your lights. It's better if it's to scale but it doesn't have to be.
Mark immoveable fixtures, such as fireplaces, alcoves, doors and windows
Next, mark with arrows which way people are likely to be facing - towards the television, for example, at a desk for working or towards the window if they like reading in a particular chair.
Mark the existing sockets. In many houses there aren't enough, which can result in dangerously overloaded plugs
To determine your circuits, mark where the light switches should be. Work logically round the entry and exit points in your home - it's frustrating when you have to feel around in the dark for a switch that is either on the wrong side of the door or non-existent.
Mark out where you'll place large pieces of furniture, such as sofas and beds.
Think about practicalities such as how you're going to change the bulb. What if you live in a room with extra-high ceilings or in a loft-style apartment and the spotlights are 20ft high in the air?

2006-06-29T02:44:00.000-07:00

If you're building a new home or doing major renovation work, plan and cater for the lighting at the same time as the plumbing. Most of us have to work with fixtures that are already there, but with a little strategic thinking it's perfectly possible to get lighting that works for you.
Begin by going round the house with a notepad and pen. In each room, ask yourself...
What do I use this space for?
Think about all its possible uses - your lounge might have to double up as a study, the children might need to do their homework or music practice in there, you might knit or sew or use part of the room as a studio. Do you tend to eat in the kitchen or on your lap in front of the television?
What's on display in each room?
Do you have a specific picture or plant you want to make a feature of?
Note it all down, because this will determine your accent lighting.
Who uses this room?
A 60 year old uses 15 times more light for reading than a ten year old.
At what times of day will people be in this room?
Where does the natural light come in?

2006-06-26T13:45:00.000-07:00

You might not realise you've got bad lighting but you'll recognise the symptoms: headaches and sore eyes, frustration in the kitchen at not being able to see what you're doing and arguments in the bedroom over whose turn it is to get up to switch out the light. Good lighting will make your home feel spacious, clean and welcoming.

North facing: cold and harsh rather than direct sunlight. Artists choose north-facing studios because the light gives truer colour rendition.
East facing: bright first thing in the morning followed by long shadows and no sun later in the day. Use artificial lighting to control glare and maximise the available natural light in north- and east-facing rooms.
South facing: warm light all day, although it changes throughout the day and year. The midday sun is usually so bright it flattens everything out. Choose south-facing rooms for the kitchen, main living areas and other rooms you spend a lot of time in.
West facing: sunlight at the hottest part of the day, which can cause glare. In the late afternoon, you'll get long shadows and softer light.