Tungsten halogen
Known simply as halogen bulbs, they burn at a much higher heat than tungsten and the case has to be made from quartz rather than glass to withstand the temperature.
Light: whiter and purer than tungsten.
Available: in low voltage (low-voltage tungsten halogen or LVTH) and mains voltage. For the former, you'll need a transformer, fitted or inbuilt, to keep the wattage down to 12 volts.
Ideal for: uplighters.
Advantages: energy-efficient. With low-voltage bulbs, the design can be slim and compact. The mains-voltage type can be used in conventional fittings without a transformer, but ask your electrician or manufacturer to be sure.
Disadvantage: expensive to replace.
Fluorescent
They're associated with the harsh, buzzing strips of factories and offices, but they're now available in lots of new varieties.
Light: flat (curved and circular tubes are better).
Available in: compact fluorescent tubes and compact fluorescent bulbs (known as compact fluorescent lamps or CFLs) that look like ordinary ones.
Ideal for: mini strip lights in kitchens.
Advantages: energy efficient and economic. Can be used with mains-voltage fittings.
Disadvantages: can't be fitted with dimmers.

Bulbs
Follow our simple guide to which bulbs should be used for which purpose, and you won't go wrong.
Remember: never to put a higher wattage bulb than the fitting instructions suggest; and buy the highest wattage allowed then control it with a dimmer.
Tungsten (incandescent)
The everyday household bulb.
Light: warm, yellowish.
Available in: clear, pearl, silver reflector or coloured versions with bayonet cap (BC), small bayonet cap (SBC), Edison screw (ES or E27) and small Edison screw (SES or E14). The clear type is best when the bulb is visible, in a chandelier for example, whereas the silver reflector is perfect for spotlights.
Ideal for: creating warmth, cosiness, intimacy.
Advantages: cheap and easy to find. They use mains electricity and don't need transformers or additional equipment.
Disadvantages: if you use a wattage that's too high your paper shade might get scorched, which could be dangerous. Constantly switching them on and off will shorten the lifespan. They tend to blow suddenly.

Task lighting
This is what you need to do a specific job, whether it's reading, working at a computer, cooking, drawing or sewing. It needs to be focused on the area you're using.
If light seeps out, you're likely to get glare from other surfaces, especially computer screens. Task lights come with tungsten, halogen or fluorescent bulbs, the Anglepoise being the best example.
What to look for in a task light
Go for a fully adjustable Anglepoise-style lamp, especially a cantilevered one, that can be angled and lowered.
Don't skimp on the price of your angled lamp. If the stem is too short it will be hard to get it high enough over your work, which will cause shadows. The more manoeuvrability the better.
Use inexpensive pull-down pendants or clip-ons.
Clip-on spotlights are useful, as you can move them to wherever they're needed.
Your light should be able to take a 60 watt bulb at least, as it must be brighter than the others in the room.
Working with task lights
Place the lamp opposite your writing hand or you'll be working in your own shadow. The beam of the light should fall on your working area and not reflect onto your computer screen. If there's no space on your desk for a lamp, fit a strip light above it.

Natural light
To make the most of the natural light available in your home, you need to know how to use it. Think about which rooms to use for what - you don't have to stick to the estate agent's details. And remember that daylight changes throughout the year. With the grey northern light in Britain, we don't have to worry about screening out strong sun, but you might find bright summer light uncomfortable to sit in. Conversely, harsh winter sunlight can make everything appear flat.
If you work from home, you'll need good task lighting as well as natural light. Avoid putting your desk in the window, as the light will be too intense - about 1m away is ideal.

Hang mirrors, particularly opposite windows.
Take down unnecessary window dressings and replace with filmy materials, such as voile and muslin, to diffuse light. Block out harsh sunlight with perforated roller blinds.
Put a fanlight over a door.
Turn an inner door into a glazed panel, or replace it with stained or clear glass.
Trim trees or bushes that overshadow windows.
Use light-reflective surfaces, and pale carpets and furnishings.

Lighting for occasions
When hosting a party, lighting is of the utmost importance for creating the right ambience. By experimenting with different types of lighting, the mood of a room can change from calm and romantic to energising and vibrant. Create a bright, warm glow with a combination of subtle light sources with an emphasis on accent lighting. Reflective surfaces such as mirrors can be used to bounce candlelight around the room and crystals, diamonds, mirror balls and reflective baubles are ideal for adding that extra festive sparkle.
Highlight certain areas of the room, such as the fireplace with fairy lights. Drape lights around dried-flowers or willow stems, or place on the mantlepiece to create a shimmering glow. Depending on the occasion, use different-coloured lights and bulbs and adjust the flicker speed on fairy lights for a party feel.
Make a large room with high ceilings appear cosier, by adding several types of small lamps, singularly or in clusters to create low pools of light. Also, consider shadows when arranging your lights and add pierced-lanterns or light shades to create unusual patterns on the walls and ceilings.

Making your plan
Now take a piece of graph paper and draw a plan of your room to help you work out the best places to put your lights. It's better if it's to scale but it doesn't have to be.
Mark immoveable fixtures, such as fireplaces, alcoves, doors and windows
Next, mark with arrows which way people are likely to be facing - towards the television, for example, at a desk for working or towards the window if they like reading in a particular chair.
Mark the existing sockets. In many houses there aren't enough, which can result in dangerously overloaded plugs
To determine your circuits, mark where the light switches should be. Work logically round the entry and exit points in your home - it's frustrating when you have to feel around in the dark for a switch that is either on the wrong side of the door or non-existent.
Mark out where you'll place large pieces of furniture, such as sofas and beds.
Think about practicalities such as how you're going to change the bulb. What if you live in a room with extra-high ceilings or in a loft-style apartment and the spotlights are 20ft high in the air?