One of the easiest and best ways to extract the medicinal properties of the herbs is to make a tisane, or herb tea, which can be drunk just like ordinary tea, and can provide a helpful supplement to the daily diet. To obtain the best flavour I always recommend using fresh herbs, but remember that they are less concentrated than dried herbs, as they still contain all their moisture. One of my favourite teas is lemon verbena, which has a lovely flavour and aroma, and is refreshing served hot or cold either on a summer's day, or last thing at night to help me get a good night's sleep.
How to make a herbal tea or tisane
Generally you need either five fresh leaves or a sprig, 5cm (2 in) in length or 2 tsp of dried herb or 1 tsp of seed per cup of boiled water. Place them on a clean piece of kitchen towel, lightly crush, and then add to a cup or teapot. Pour over the boiled water that has been cooled to just below boiling and cover.
Covering is especially important as this stops the essential oils, which are medicinally beneficial, evaporating off in the steam. Leave to brew for five minutes. Strain if necessary into a cup. Herb teas rarely require milk, but may be sweetened with honey to taste.

Herbs, in most cases, are tough wild plants which, when spoilt by the lush conditions of a garden, will thrive and romp away. It's a myth that all herbs like full sun, even good old basil likes partial shade at midday. So when planning your garden, you can divide your plants into two sections, those like thyme, sage, rosemary, french tarragon and oregano that like full sun; and those that like partial shade, such as rocket, sorrel, mizuna, mustard, parsley and chervil.
Containers and window boxes
If I had to choose some 'must haves' to put in a window box on the sunny side of the house I would include chives, oregano, lemon thyme and a creeping rosemary to drape over the edge. However, on the shady side of the house I would have a salad herb window box which would include wild rocket, chervil, French parsley and red mustard.
When growing herbs in containers, I have two important tips. The first is to use a soil-based compost, either organic or something like potting compost. This is because there are very few herbs that grow in peat, and a soil-based compost retains moisture which is a must to stop containers drying out. I also advise watering in the morning rather than the evening because this gives the plants a chance if the temperatures are hot during the day, especially for containers grown in full sun. The second tip is to feed container plants weekly from March until September. This keeps the plants healthy, helps them produce leaves, especially on cut and come again salads. I use a seaweed-based feed, however you can use any proprietary feeds that boost leaf production

Healing properties
Herbs are the quintessential plant: they look good, smell good and do you good. They have been used ever since humans have been on the earth, as medicines, perfumes, insect repellents and, of course, in food and flavouring. This huge group of plants includes trees, shrubs, annuals and even cacti, to name but a few.
The most important thing to remember when growing herbs is that they are the foundation of all modern medicine. They are not the gentle namby-pamby things some would like you to think. They are healers, therefore they should be treated with respect, and if you are considering them for specific medicinal use always consult a doctor or qualified herbalist. If you are growing herbs for use in the kitchen then you need to learn about their flavour and how they can aid digestion.

Bark - is especially useful for preventing competitive weed and grass growth in island beds; any young weeds that do appear through it are easily removed with a hoe. It is sold in three grades; coarse, medium and large. Each is equally effective as a mulch but differs in ornamental appearance and the speed at which it breaks down in the soil.
Path with gravel - lay a fibre membrane where the path is to be sited and cover it with a 5cm (2in) gravel layer. The membrane will act as an underground mulch, stopping weeds from growing, so a hardcore layer under the gravel can be omitted, thus reducing costs.

Leaf-mould is made of leaves that have rotted down over time, and makes a fantastic free garden conditioner. So, when you're sweeping up all those autumn leaves, don't look on it as a chore, but as a real benefit for your garden.

Mulch II.
Gravel and grit - alpine plants are small and slow-growing and must have a well-drained soil to grow well in a rock garden. By applying a thin layer of coarse gravel or grit around them, not only are competitive weed numbers kept under control, but the soil drainage is improved and rotting avoided because harmful winter rains quickly run through it.
Pebbles - large pebbles create strong visual impact on the surface of containers while reducing water loss. They also ensure that the dusty surface of the compost will remain undisturbed if pots are sited by open windows.
Grass clippings - an excellent mulch available in the summer is grass clippings. These can be spread around plants or used to cover the odd gap on the soil surface and can be collected later and incorporated into the compost heap. It is less ornamental than cocoa shells, so use it at the back of borders where it won't be seen. It is great value as it is free, whether from your own lawn or a neighbour's. If weedkiller has been used on the lawn, then do not use the clippings for four cuts.

Mulch is used in the garden for many reasons. It helps the soil retain moisture, provides nutrients, discourages weeds, provides drainage, insulates the soil in winter and cools it in summer, provides food for soil creatures and improves soil structure.
Cocoa shells - made from cocoa shells, this mulch is ideal for flowerbeds. It is pleasant to handle and has a strong smell of chocolate. After a few weeks, the shells bind together to make a loosely knitted, porous mat over the soil surface, which provides excellent ground cover in larger borders where weeding can be difficult and time consuming. This binding effect means that a 5cm (2in) mulch layer will be adequate wherever it is used.
Manure - well-rotted manure can be bought from garden centres. In the fruit or vegetable garden, it provides a rich base of nutrients as it decomposes. When applying it to borders in spring, always use well-rotted manure and lay it 7.5cm (3in) thick. Unrotted manure should only be applied in autumn, in a layer 5cm to 7.5cm (2in to 3in) thick. Always wear gloves when handling manure.

Place a layer of broken crocks in the base of the trough. This will help drainage and ensure that the roots are never sitting in water.
Fill the trough with compost to within 12.5cm (5in) of the rim. As the container will be quite heavy when filled do this close to where the pot will permanently stand.
Mix a few handfuls of horticultural grit into the top of the compost. This will further improve the drainage of the pot and stop the plant roots and base of stems from rotting.

Place your selection of plants in the trough, ensuring that trailing types will hang over the edges. Choose a position off-centre for the conifer for a more natural effect.
Plant the alpines in the compost, starting in one corner and working towards the opposite edge. Make sure that any gaps between each of the plants and the trough edges are firmly filled.
To finish the trough, sprinkle a thin layer of horticultural grit around each plant. This will stop slugs from attacking plants and prevents competitive moss and algae growing.
Remove fallen leaves from the container's surface in autumn. If these are left on and start to rot, the plants underneath can be damaged.
Protect from excessive winter wet by moving the pot into a sheltered site or covering when necessary with glass sheeting.
Feed the trough each spring.
In hot or windy weather, keep the plants well watered to ensure they do not dry out.
Watch out for slug damage and sprinkle slug pellets or extra grit around susceptible plants as necessary.