Growing bags

Despite only measuring 35cm x 95cm (13in x 37in), growing bags have enough space for three vegetable plants that will provide you with enough food for several meals over the summer. Plant two to three plants in each bag during spring.
Bags were traditionally used under glass and were introduced as an alternative to planting directly into greenhouse soil. Not having permanent borders meant the space could be used more efficiently throughout the year and plants would not become infected by soil-borne diseases. Today, they are still ideal for growing plants in the greenhouse, but are also perfect in a sunny spot outdoors.
Growing bags are ideal for plants that don't have deep roots, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet peppers, chilli peppers, aubergines and courgettes. Plant two to three plants in each bag during spring. Alternatively, cut a long panel in the top of the bag and sow salads in rows. Endive, lettuce, basil and rocket can be sown from spring to late summer.
If growing salads, prepare the bag as before and cut out a long panel on top of the bag. Plant or sow in rows across the width of the bag.

Currants

Bare rooted currant varieties are widely available for planting between October and March, while container grown currants can be planted all year round, as long as the soil is not frozen or waterlogged. If possible, buy a two year old plant – once planted it will remain productive for almost 20 years.
Grow currants in well drained soil, which has been enriched by adding plenty of well-rotted manure. Choose a slightly sheltered spot, and although plants prefer full sun, they will tolerate dappled shade.
Dig a hole that is wide enough for the roots to be spread out and deep enough, so the soil mark on the stem is level with the surface of the soil. Place the bush in the centre of the hole and gradually fill with soil, firming it as you fill. Water and finish by spreading a layer of well-rotted manure over the root area of each plant. If you are planting a number of red and white currant varieties, leave 1.5m between plants and 1.8m between rows.
Red and white currants should be trained as an open centred, goblet-shaped bush - this allows light and air to flow freely around the branches, and makes picking easier. After planting, pull off any suckers growing from beneath ground level and cut back to the stem, any branches less than 10cm above the soil – this will give the bush a short leg. Prune all other branches to a third of their original length, cutting to an outward facing bud. In subsequent years, allow branches to grow in the main framework until your bush fills its allotted space. Then, prune back the upright growing leading shoots to half their length, cutting to an upright bud. At the end of June, prune back side shoots to half their length and then to two or three buds in winter.